Crossing the Andes

Saturday, 27 April, 2013

Our route across the Andes

On this rather misty day we travelled from Bariloche in Argentina to Puerto Varas in Chile.  Not far as the crow flies, but a full day's journey for us.  The only way across the Andes by land in this region is by boat and bus.  The road is only used by a privately owned company (Cruceandino) which operates the bus and boat services.  They even provide guides to make sure all travellers get across the border without any problems, as well as giving commentary about the various sights along the way.
Our departure time was 9 am and we checked into our hotel at 7.30 in the evening.

Arriving at Puerto Panuelo

The bus took us to the embarkation point at Puerto Panuelo, about 20 minutes drive along Lake Nahuel Huapi and just after 10 am we set sail for Puerto Blest.  It was warm and comfortable inside the ferry with plenty of spare seats and the usual cafeteria facilities.  Huge wrap-around windows give everyone a fantastic view of the passing scenery.  Today was overcast and the high distant mountains were partly obscured, but those around the lake were clearly visible.  After a short time of sailing north the boat turned into an arm of the lake in a westerly direction.  As we passed a small island the boat slowed in front of the grave of Moreno, the national parks founder, and gave three toots of its horn - something that occurs each voyage.  The rest of the hour long journey up this arm of the lake was like being in a fiord as it is quite narrow and the mountains rise straight up out of the water.   The lower sections of the mountains are covered with dense forest and it seems amazing that such large trees are able to grow out of what appears to be solid rock.  I  did venture up on the top deck but it was too cold to stay there for long.  As we travelled the sun came out and we had blue skies until we reached Puerto Blest.

Forests and mountains, Lake Nahuel Huapi

Fiord-like west arm of Lake Nahuel Huapi

Sailing into Puerto Blest

Puerto Blest is definitely a one horse town, just a staging post where the bus collects passengers from the boat to transport them to the next lake crossing.  A pretty little river tumbles down from the mountains and enters the lake at this point.

Lakeside, Puerto Blest

River, Puerto Blest

The bus trip is quite short, about 10 minutes and is on a rough unsealed track through dense rainforest.  There are some huge trees (relatives of the North American redwood) and a lot of bamboo - looks like panda country in many ways.  Much of the bamboo was dried and dead because after flowering, which happens once every 70 years, the plant dies off.  Very strange.  By the way, no pandas, but this is puma country. No chance of seeing one as they are apparently as elusive as pandas.

Bamboo and rainforest

Our bus rattled down the hill to a jetty  (Puerto Alegre)  at the end of a small but startlingly green lake, again surrounded by mind-boggling mountains with sheer cliffs rising straight up out of the water.  We boarded a funny little boat for a twenty minute ride up to the other end of the lake which is named Lake Frias.  It was very still today, hardly a breath of wind and therefore not the right conditions to see any of the condors which make their homes on these high cliff faces.  It seems that they like windy conditions for their soaring activities.  The lower forests that cling to the steep mountain slopes are evergreen, but higher up the trees are in full autumn russet colours.  At one point a river enters the lake and the sandbanks here are home to some lovely deciduous trees, all in  golden autumn glory.  Our guide explained that the green colour of the lake comes from the mineral sediments washed down from the mountains.

All aboard - Lago Frias

Emerald waters and rainforest. Lago Frias

Lago Frias - autumn leaves

On disembarking at Puerto Frias we were ushered into a building which turned out to be the exit point from Argentina so we all had our passports stamped and then it was on to another bus.  These "puertos" have nothing but a couple of buildings for officials or  the travel company.  Nobody actually lives out here. It is very isolated.

For  next hour we undertook a hair-raising ride over a 3000ft mountain pass, again through dense rain forest.  It is a narrow, unsealed road and it is probably just as well that the vegetation obscured the sight of some of the sheer drops we passed so close to on this journey.  Through gaps in the forest we could see high mountains above us in all directions.  The distance was only 27 kms but the going was slow.  At one point the bus stopped and we all piled out to photograph the actual border crossing.

Out of Argentina...

and into Chile

Finally the bus wound its way downhill and we reached a wide river valley which was typical of mountain areas.  Lots of shingle banks and rushing icy blue-green waters.  Signs of civilisation began to appear as we started to see cattle and some sheep grazing on the grasslands beside the river.  Gradually the valley widened and we arrived in Puella, Chile to undergo the stringent customs and immigration checks at this border post.  We all had our bags inspected as Chile has no agricultural pests/viruses and wants to keep things that way. A bit like Australia and NZ.  There is a small settlement at Puella and a rather imposing hotel which caters for nature lovers and people making the crossing of the Andes.  It certainly has the feel of a mountain lodge and we enjoyed a hearty lunch there.

River valley close to Chile/Argentina border

Setting sail from Puella

At 4 pm we departed Puella on a large and comfortable catamaran and sailed across Lago Todos Los Santos (All Saints Lake). This one hour and forty minute journey took us to Petrohue and our final leg, by bus to Puerto Varas.  Unfortunately the clouds were lower here and we were unable to see the tops of the two huge volcanos, Mt Puntiagudo and the Fuji-like Mt Osorno, as we sailed up the lake. Nevertheless it was again a very scenic voyage. Around the shores of this lake are houses and farms which belong to the descendants of the original German settlers.  These people were allowed to remain when the area became a national park, but their only means of access is by boat.

Farm settlement, Logo Todos Los Santos

From Petrohue it is a short journey to Lake Llanquihue which is on the western fringes of the Andes.  We followed the shoreline of the lake for about an hour and finally reached our destination, Puerto Varas which is a large town on the southern shores of this huge lake.  Pato, our local guide, introduced us to the delights of Pisco Sour - yes you guessed it - pure alcohol, lime juice and sugar as we drove along.  By now we were into farmlands with the mountains behind us.  After a long day of travelling we were delighted to discover that the Hotel Cumbres was absolutely gorgeous, a sort of high end ski resort style of decor.  We had a good dinner and then made ourselves comfortable for a nightcap before a huge log fire in the lounge.  Everyone commented that it was a pity we were only spending one night here.  Very luxurious.

Last leg - Pato organises our bags in Petrohue

Our trip over the Andes was nothing short of spectacular and very well managed considering all the changes of transport and negotiation of international borders.  The Andes are awe-inspiring and the Patagonian Lakes are beautiful.  I feel so privileged to have been able to make this journey.

Bariloche

Friday, 26 April, 2013

This morning some cloud hung over the distant mountains as our bus headed west along the lake shore and we were all feeling chilly after becoming accustomed to the warmer temperatures on the eastern coast.   As we drew away from the town centre  the houses along the lakeshore became grander with beautifully manicured gardens - obviously an up market area.

Lakeside homes and gardens

 Roses seem to thrive here and the blooms are enormous.  There is a mix of native and imported plants in the gardens but in the forests the trees are all indigenous to the area. At this time of the years the colours of the deciduous trees stand out, especially the tall golden poplars which are everywhere.

Autumn colours beside the lake

Looking across the lake to the north east we were able to make out some huge peaks in the morning mist.  The vast extent of the Andes is can be imagined just from the mountain landscape that can be seen from Lake Nahuel Huapi which is the largest of many lakes in the area.  The mountains also reach up behind the lake to the south and west.

Mountains in the mist

We turned off the main road to make a loop of a scenic area, known as the Curcuito Chico, and passed by some very special places.  Firstly we skirted the shores of Lake Moreno which is  smaller and named after the founder of the Argentinian national park system.  From here we arrived at a bridge which crosses the lake at its narrowest point and we all piled out of the bus to take photos of the gorgeous scenery. The lakes are pristine and all the forests and wildlife are protected.  Dotted along the shores are some very nice houses, but they have been designed to be unobtrusive and do not impinge too much on the landscape.

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Lake Moreno

Chilly morning, Lake Moreno

Our bus then took us up to a high point on the road where we were able to get a panoramic view of the lakes and mountains - quite stunning!  We saw a lot of birds up here, including the chimango also know as caracara.  They are quite large brown birds and one was on the ground very close to some people who were giving it food - they seem quite unperturbed by this human contact.

Panoramic view 

Chimango

 Some enterprising locals had set up stalls here beside the road selling local handcrafts and there was a fellow offering photos with his St Bernard dogs.  This photo opportunity was irresistible and I sat with the two beautiful dogs and the, stunning mountain scenery as a backdrop.  The dogs were gentle  giants and very friendly with the softest of coats.  They are not used as rescue dogs here in Argentina, but are purely for the tourists.  The photos were delivered to my hotel later in the day.  I am sure Benji will love to see them!

Beautiful St Bernard dogs and beautiful vistas

We continued on down the hill to a place named Llao Llao, the site of a world famous luxury hotel of the same name. No, we weren't permitted to visit it but instead drove to a small church (Capilla San Eduardo) situated on a hill with a great view back to the hotel and the mountains behind.  We could see the snow covered peak of Mt Tronador (Mt Thunderer) which is partly in Chile and, at 3491 metres, the highest peak in this area. It is an extinct volcano (unlike the other two volcanos nearby).  The hotel certainly looks magnificent and is surrounded by a golf course and an exclusive enclave of holiday homes.  It must have magnificent views in all directions.  Below the church is the small port (Panuelo Port) which is the terminus for the ferry service to Chile.

Mt Tronador

Llao Llao Hotel and Mt Tronador in the distance

It is hard to leave such splendid views but we had the highlight of the day to come.  A little further back along the shore towards Bariloche is the Cerro Campanario chairlift, a 7 minute ride to a lookout terrace and restaurant with 360 degree views of lakes and mountains which are nothing short of breathtaking.  Although the skies were cloudy today none of the mountain peaks were obscured and we were all thrilled with the experience of seeing the immense natural beauty of the landscape all around us.  Huge mountains away into the distance as far as we could see, lakes and forests directly below and the  town of Bariloche, just a tiny part of this magnificent panorama.  After much photo taking we headed into the restaurant to sample the choconec - hot chocolate with brandy, apparently concocted for the hordes of Brazilian skiers who arrive in the winter and find the cold hard to take. One can only imagine how magical this place must look in winter when snow covers the ground.

Chairlift, Cerro Campanario

View from top of chairlift, Cerro Camapnario

More stupendous views

With our tour of the local area finished we were taken to a restaurant named La Marmite, in the centre of Bariloche.  Owned by a Swiss family, it had the look of a chalet and the interior was pure Swiss Alps.  We even had apple strudel for dessert. It is a shame I don't like fish as there seems to be fresh trout or salmon on the menu every day and I am told that it is all very good by other members of the group who have been overdosing on Omega 3.  I have had some great ravioli on this trip, some ok beef and some rather mediocre chicken.  Nice meals but not really anything to rave about.

Roses outside La Marmite Restaurant - (Marmite - the cooking pot, not the black stuff)

The afternoon was free for shopping or resting and I managed a bit of both.  The cloud cleared by late afternoon and we were treated to a spectacular sunset with the lake and the mountains blazing with red and gold.  A lovely finale to a wonderful day!  Bariloche and the area of the Patagonian Lakes surely must be one of the most stunning natural landscapes anywhere in the world and the Argentinian authorities are very conscientious in protecting the environment. Obviously one could spend a week here happily exploring all of the lakes and mountain trails.  Or you could just eat chocolate - they sell it by the kilo here.  For anyone contemplating a trip to South America I would say "Don't miss Bariloche!"

Main plaza, Bariloche at sundown

Sunset from the main plaza

The sunset got prettier....

and prettier!

Westward Bound

Thursday, 25 April 2013

Today we flew from Buenos Aires to San Carlo de Bariloche in Patagonia, Argentina.  We have said goodbye to most of or group and now number just 14 (previously 33).  Buenos Aires is a magnificent city in many ways but I am not sorry to leave the crowds and crazy traffic.  Just a couple of last shots that I took this last night and this morning.

Uruguay ferry coming into port in Buenos Aires - from my hotel window

San Martin Plaza and Torre Monumental - opposite our hotel in Buenos Aires

Rio de la Plata - by the downtown airport, Buenos Aires

Our flight to Bariloche was one and half hours and we arrived in brilliant sunshine.  The landscape around the airport is barren and hilly - not every encouraging - and there was a bit of a nip in the air.

The approach to Bariloche Airport

We drove for 20 minutes mostly downhill and were soon rewarded by views of the huge Lake Nahuel Hapi sparkling in the sun, with the mountains in the distance somewhat hazy. As it is now autumn there are plenty of red and gold leaves on the trees around the town.

First view of Lake Nahuel Hapi, close to our hotel in Bariloche

My room was right under the sign - great views!

We were settled into our hotel, the Edelweiss, quickly and as it is in the centre of town we were soon out to explore.  In two short blocks we are at the shoreline and one block back is Mitre, the main street.   Anyone with a chocolate addiction would think that Bariloche is paradise.  Chocolate shops everywhere!  And of course the obligatory souvenir shops.  The stores close at 1 pm every day and open again at 4 pm.  It seems as if the whole town comes out to stroll around, shop or drink coffee.  It doesn't get dark until 7.30 pm but once the sun goes down behind the mountains the temperature plummets.  It was minus one last night and fortunately dinner was organised for us in the hotel so we didn't have to venture out.

A small section of one of the many chocolate shops

View from the main plaza in Bariloche

Bariloche was developed as a tourist resort in the 1930's by the government and there are many faux-Swiss type buildings - mostly made of logs.  A couple of monstrous eyesores in the shape of multi-story apartment blocks, built in the 60's, kind of spoil the atmosphere but our guide tells us that now very strict building controls are in place and all buildings must now conform with the chalet style.  It is kind of like an untidy Switzerland I guess.   My impression however was that the area has more in common with Lake Tahoe than the Swiss Alps.  We will see tomorrow when we go on a trip along the lake.  In the winter Bariloche is the principal ski-resort of Argentina.

Swiss-style buildings in the main square

 
We hadn't had lunch except for a snack on the plane so I decided I should try some Argentine ice cream - with its large Italian population to cater for I am told that the gelati is very good. There was plenty of choice of the usual flavours but one called "crema de guinda" caught my eye.  The guy behind the counter didn't know the English translation but told me that guinda was a fruit.  It looked a bit like streaks of cherry with a bit more of a purple tinge, through vanilla ice cream.  Anyway it was pretty nice - a berry flavour but more tart than cherries.  Ok, I googled it - guinda are sour cherries so now you know!
The local people in this region are called the Muchape and the whole area is very much protected.  The big lake has only sailing and rowing except for two tourist boats that take tours.  The only way to Chile from here, other than flying, is by boat. The whole are is known as the Patagonian Lake District and there are indeed a large number of lakes and waterways.   Bariloche is the main centre for a number of national parks which extend into Chile as well.  The volcanic eruption in Chile in 2011 was only 100 kilometres away and the whole area was covered in ash.  Fortunately there was no permanent damage and Raquel, our guide, reckons that the flowers bloom bigger and brighter than before!

Out on the Pampas

Wednesday, 24 April, 2013

Our trip today was an hour's drive out of Buenos Aires to the north west where we visited an estancia (ranch) which besides being a working farm, is also into agritourism.  After negotiating the outskirts of BA - typical outer city scenery of billboards, motorways, light industry - we took the Pan American Highway west and were soon in the pampas.  This covers a vast area of Argentina and is the land of beef, soya beans, pampas grass and gauchos.  It looks very flat and dry and uninteresting, therefore it was a surprise when we turned into the gates of Estancia Santa Susanna - a lush, green oasis surrounding a pretty pink colonial farmhouse.  Even more surprising was that the perimeter of the garden area which covers a couple of acres at least is planted with enormous gum trees.  They have obviously been there since the early days of the estancia - in the 1800's.  There are also large bottlebrush trees in the garden.  Graham, the other Aussie on the tour, said the landscape reminded him of western NSW.  

                                                   Pampas grasslands - from the bus

                                                      Estancia Santa Susanna homestead

We were warmly welcomed by one of the gauchos and shown to an outbuilding, a kind of covered terrace where we were given drinks and empanadas - tasty, with beef filling.  The complex here also has a gift shop, a barbecue room with a huge fireplace and grill and then an enormous dining hall all set up for lunch.  We were not the only tour group today and there were visitors from other South American countries as well as Poland and Korea.

                                           The giant open fire grill with lunch on the go

After our snack we were invited to go horse riding or carriage riding and I opted for the later.  The carriage would certainly not get through the roadworthy test at home, but it held together and we had a bumpy ride through some paddocks close to the house.  Many of the others took the 15 minute horse ride following the same route, while I took a stroll around the gardens and then visited the house and its attendant chapel.  Although once lived in by the Irish/Argentinian owners (of course named  Kelly) it is now a museum and contains furniture and many mementos of family life in the early days of the estancia.   Quite an amazing collection, from toys and cooking utensils to books, family photos and clothing.  It was as though the house was ready for the return of the family at any moment.  I guess the Kellys, or whoever owns the ranch now live elsewhere.

                                                       Carriage ride before lunch

                                               Lovely gardens at Santa Susanna Ranch

A three course lunch was served in the dining hall and we were given many different kinds of salads, followed by barbecued steak, chicken and sausage, all washed down with seemingly endless bottles of red wine.  Very tasty, except that I was not persuaded to try the blood sausage and those who did weren't exactly enthusiastic.  Dessert was a little honey-coated pastry with a quince filling - extremely delicious.  Following lunch we were treated to some folk music by two gauchos, one on guitar and one on accordion.  Then a couple showed off some really tricky tango/gaucho dancing and twirling their boleadoras (two leather covered stone balls on the end of long ropes).  The music was fast and frenetic and soon everybody was up and dancing.   We all enjoyed the show and the meal enormously.

                                     A few glasses of Argentinian red and everyone was dancing!

Our final treat for the afternoon was a horsemanship display by the four gauchos.  They are very skilled horsemen and seemed to really enjoy showing off to and appreciative audience.  They are able to control 6 - 10 horses each and have them all lined up in front of the seating area in a jiffy. The young girls were all smitten by the good looks and charm of the youngest gaucho and all clamoured to be taken for a ride on his horse with him - he was happy to oblige!

                                                                  Cutie pie gaucho!

                                                       Gaucho horseman at work


Of course today was all about tourism and a somewhat romanticised view of the gaucho and his life, nevertheless everyone had a really good time and learned a bit more about the traditions and history of Argentina.  Yet another interesting and well presented experience for us to enjoy on our tour.  We are certainly seeing a wide variety of people and places on this trip.

                                                  Gum trees in Santa Susanna garden