Westward Bound

Thursday, 25 April 2013

Today we flew from Buenos Aires to San Carlo de Bariloche in Patagonia, Argentina.  We have said goodbye to most of or group and now number just 14 (previously 33).  Buenos Aires is a magnificent city in many ways but I am not sorry to leave the crowds and crazy traffic.  Just a couple of last shots that I took this last night and this morning.

Uruguay ferry coming into port in Buenos Aires - from my hotel window

San Martin Plaza and Torre Monumental - opposite our hotel in Buenos Aires

Rio de la Plata - by the downtown airport, Buenos Aires

Our flight to Bariloche was one and half hours and we arrived in brilliant sunshine.  The landscape around the airport is barren and hilly - not every encouraging - and there was a bit of a nip in the air.

The approach to Bariloche Airport

We drove for 20 minutes mostly downhill and were soon rewarded by views of the huge Lake Nahuel Hapi sparkling in the sun, with the mountains in the distance somewhat hazy. As it is now autumn there are plenty of red and gold leaves on the trees around the town.

First view of Lake Nahuel Hapi, close to our hotel in Bariloche

My room was right under the sign - great views!

We were settled into our hotel, the Edelweiss, quickly and as it is in the centre of town we were soon out to explore.  In two short blocks we are at the shoreline and one block back is Mitre, the main street.   Anyone with a chocolate addiction would think that Bariloche is paradise.  Chocolate shops everywhere!  And of course the obligatory souvenir shops.  The stores close at 1 pm every day and open again at 4 pm.  It seems as if the whole town comes out to stroll around, shop or drink coffee.  It doesn't get dark until 7.30 pm but once the sun goes down behind the mountains the temperature plummets.  It was minus one last night and fortunately dinner was organised for us in the hotel so we didn't have to venture out.

A small section of one of the many chocolate shops

View from the main plaza in Bariloche

Bariloche was developed as a tourist resort in the 1930's by the government and there are many faux-Swiss type buildings - mostly made of logs.  A couple of monstrous eyesores in the shape of multi-story apartment blocks, built in the 60's, kind of spoil the atmosphere but our guide tells us that now very strict building controls are in place and all buildings must now conform with the chalet style.  It is kind of like an untidy Switzerland I guess.   My impression however was that the area has more in common with Lake Tahoe than the Swiss Alps.  We will see tomorrow when we go on a trip along the lake.  In the winter Bariloche is the principal ski-resort of Argentina.

Swiss-style buildings in the main square

 
We hadn't had lunch except for a snack on the plane so I decided I should try some Argentine ice cream - with its large Italian population to cater for I am told that the gelati is very good. There was plenty of choice of the usual flavours but one called "crema de guinda" caught my eye.  The guy behind the counter didn't know the English translation but told me that guinda was a fruit.  It looked a bit like streaks of cherry with a bit more of a purple tinge, through vanilla ice cream.  Anyway it was pretty nice - a berry flavour but more tart than cherries.  Ok, I googled it - guinda are sour cherries so now you know!
The local people in this region are called the Muchape and the whole area is very much protected.  The big lake has only sailing and rowing except for two tourist boats that take tours.  The only way to Chile from here, other than flying, is by boat. The whole are is known as the Patagonian Lake District and there are indeed a large number of lakes and waterways.   Bariloche is the main centre for a number of national parks which extend into Chile as well.  The volcanic eruption in Chile in 2011 was only 100 kilometres away and the whole area was covered in ash.  Fortunately there was no permanent damage and Raquel, our guide, reckons that the flowers bloom bigger and brighter than before!