A Day in Santiago

Monday, 29 April, 2013

Today was our first full day  in Santiago and we spent the morning taking a tour of some notable locations around the city with our guide, Ricardo.   Leaving the Providencia area, where our hotel is located, we arrived in the Santiago district (in effect, downtown) and our first stop was the Plaza de la Constitucion with the obligatory government buildings and statues (Allende, amongst them).  On the opposite side of the Plaza is the Palacio de la Moneda, the presidential palace.  It is an imposing building with fountains, water features and a huge paved area in front.  I am not sure whether it was good luck or good management, but no sooner had we gathered in front of the water features than an impressive changing of the guard ceremony began.  The palace is guarded by elite police and a troop of stray dogs.  From across the square came a procession of mounted police leading the new guards who were marching to the music of a band bring up the rear.  They came to a halt in formation outside the main steps into the palace and here the ceremony took place.   Much to the amusement of the huge crowd a couple of the dogs joined in, inspecting the ranks by running up and down the rows of policemen and wagging their tales excitedly.  I am sure the guards are quite accustomed to the canine inspection - it was even suggested by one of our group that the dogs were probably encouraged to perform. They certainly looked healthy and well-fed.

Changing the Guard, Palacio de Moneda

We watched for a bit and then started our walking tour past some grand old buildings and then into a network of covered arcades which were designed in the French style.

Old Congress National Building, Santiago

Street scene, Santiago

  Ricardo explained that they were very useful on rainy days and in the heat of summer.  We stopped in front of a take away place to check out the kind of food that Chileans like to eat on the run, including bottled Cola de Mono (monkey tail) which is made from aguardiente (fire water), coffee, milk, sugar and cinnamon.

Santiago takeaway bar - pisco sour,(bottom left) and cola de mono (top right)

  There were plenty of shops in the arcades and we were introduced to a "café con piernas" (coffee with legs).  We peeked through a crack in the heavy wooden doors of this establishment and through the smoky haze (cigarettes, not smog) saw a whole bunch of businessmen in suits being served their morning coffee by voluptuous young women in tight fitting mini dresses.  Apparently these coffee houses are common in Santiago - harmless perving in the business district but in the poorer areas they are often sleazy fronts for prostitution.  No female clientele of course.

Exiting the arcade we crossed the street and entered Santiago's cathedral via the rear door - very ornate and beautiful.

Silver altar, Santiago Cathedral.

We made our way through the cathedral and out the front door into the main plaza of the city, Plaza de Armas.  This is a huge plaza with trees, a large statue in the middle, and lots of places to sit and enjoy the comings and goings.  A number of artists and copper artisans had set up stalls in one corner and there was a book festival in full swing in another.  All in all a pleasant place to wander about in the middle of the city.

Plaza de Armas, Santiago

Plaza de Armas, main plaza of Santiago

The bus arrived and we  set off through the city once more, past the Mercado (market) and a pretty park, Parque Forestal, before crossing the Mapocho River to arrive in the area called Bellavista.  This is a really funky neighbourhood where artists and students hang out.  The houses are painted bright colours and there are abstract wall murals everywhere along the streets which are lined with lovely shady trees.  It is a shame we didn't have a chance to stop and explore this area.

Typical street view, Bellavista area

Anyway it was on up the Cerro San Cristobal and through the Parque Metropolitano for a birds eye view of the city.   No doubt the view is splendid but unfortunately the haze and smog reduced the clarity of the scene and the more distant mountains had almost disappeared.  It seems that the mountains only stand out sharply against the sky in winter after a rainstorm.

Santiago and the Andes from Cerro San Cristobal - hey smog, nice to see you!

More smog - US Embassy in left foreground

Next stop on the tour was a visit to the Faba Chilean Craft Centre, specialists in Chile's national gemstone, the lapis lazuli.  We had a bit of a look around at the gorgeous jewellery and the handcrafts but everything was hideously expensive so we left empty handed, our tour complete.

Lapis lazuli figurines in the window at Faba

Some of us hopped off the bus at the new shopping mall, Costanera Centre, an indoor emporium which is very flash and has all the usual shops one would find in a similar mall anywhere in the world.  We were intrigued by the lifesize Lego man - not the happiest looking fellow I must say.  Arlene, June and I wandered about window shopping and found our way to the enormous food court on the top floor where we joined the throngs having lunch - again all the usual suspects in fast food plus a few Chilean ones as well.  I had a Dominos Lunchtime pizza and a coke - it was at least recognisable.  As we had tramped about all afternoon we decided to forgo the walk back to the hotel and take a taxi.  Of course the driver spoke no English and my dreadful Spanish had us ending up at the wrong Sheraton (there are 4 in Santiago).  Fortunately it was not far out of our way and we finally arrived at the correct one - all for the princely sum of around $US6.00.

Atrium, Costanera Shopping Mall

Not so jolly Lego man

Today was the beginning of a very full on six days and tonight we all piled into the bus and drove about 30 minutes to a venue called Bali Hut for dinner and a show.  The place was full of tour groups and decorated in what I can only describe as a Chilean interpretation of Polynesian Island style.  Anyway it was kind of funky in a strange way but I am not sure where the erotic statuary fitted into the picture.  Dinner was mediocre but then the show began.   There was a Tahitian band which sang a bit and then provided accompaniment for six very talented dancers who presented a range of dances which represented different ages and cultures of Chilean history.  The costumes were lavish and the dancing beautifully choreographed and executed.  In the middle of the show a middle aged guy came on stage and sang some songs in Italian (Sole Mio etc).   I am not sure what he was supposed to represent, if anything, but he had a lovely voice and the audience joined in enthusiastically.    Finally the show was over so it was back on the bus and I guess we managed to make it to bed about midnight.

Bali Hut, Easter Island dancers