Burgundy Pleasures

Sunday 29 June - Sunday 6 July

Gastronomically, Burgundy (Bourgogne if you are French) has three claims to fame, wine, Dijon mustard and beef Bourguignon, and after a week in this lovely part of France we can attest to the following:

Wine -                absolutely fantastic if quite pricey - no wonder it is so highly rated!
Mustard -           (of the Dijon variety) - good and an amazing range of flavours and colours - but of course                              we can readily by Dijon mustard at home. Expensive in the souvenir shops, cheap in the                                supermarket.
Beef Bourguignon - can be delicious - depends on the restaurant (we were lucky in our choice)

Burgundy definitely provided us with our best foodie experiences in France, from the fresh-from-the-oven croissants provided by the boulangerie in the neighbouring village (just a short bike ride away),

Cheryl prepares breakfast (mostly achieved on a bicycle!)

 to the mouth-watering fruit from the Dijon market (think cherries, apricots, peaches, figs), the many delicious meals we enjoyed in lovely regional restaurants when out and about, and of course the wines (with yummy cheese accompaniment).

Tucking into Boeuf Bourguignon,  Restaurant Le Carnot, Beaune

 Despite having a large modern kitchen we didn't cook much - just chopping and pouring for our evening light snack after having a delicious lunch somewhere on our excursions around the local countryside.
The villages of the Cote d'Or department are renowned for high quality wine - Chassagne-Montrachet (the location of our house), Puligny-Montrachet, Mersault, Santenay, Pommard, Saint-Aubin, to name a few - and they are located in a relatively small area that lies on a limestone escarpment overlooking the valley of the Saone River. There is a popular tourist route, Route des Grands Crus, which passes through these villages.

Cote d'Or vineyards near Chassagne-Montrachet

 Each wine domaine has a number of fields spread across the low hills and not always adjacent to each other.  M. Moret, the owner of our house has 28 separate parcels of land where he has vines - no wonder each morning we could see typical little white vans whizzing around the lanes and parked amongst the vines as well as the very strange looking tall skinny tractors with robotic arms and hosepipes which amble around the countryside in search of vines to spray (or so it seems).

Weird and wonderful vineyard machine outside my bedroom window

Obviously this limestone ridge has a great bearing on the quality of the grapes and wine produced in the area but it is not so nice for hair washing - the water is not kind to hair as we discovered.
The rooms in our house are on one level but well elevated so we had lovely views across the vineyards and the village which is home to some very classy domaines and one super expensive restaurant (which we did not patronise).

View to the village from our house at Chassagne-Montrachet

The house is a newcomer to the rental market and is beautifully presented with every home comfort imaginable - lovely to come home to each evening.

Our house in the vineyards - Chassagne-Montrachet

 Burgundy offers much to the visitor apart from wining and dining so we had a lovely week of exploring both by pedal power and by car without having to venture too far.  We were close to three of the bigger towns of the area and took the opportunity to visit them all - Beaune, Dijon and Chalon-sur-Saone.

Beaune
The main centre of the Cote d'Or wine region, Beaune (15 kilometres from our house) is a town of 20 thousand with an old medieval centre, a beautiful old hospital, many shops and restaurants and, of course, wine bars.  Our first visit was on a rather dreary morning and after luckily securing a very central parking spot we visited the town's major showpiece, the Hotel-Dieu, which since the 1400's has housed the Hospices de Beaune, this wonderful facility only being relocated in the late 20th Century.  Although an imposing building from the outside, it is once through the gates that the full splendour of this medieval masterpiece is revealed.  Surrounding a central courtyard are two wings with beautiful gabled dormer windows and the roof is tiled with intricately patterned multi-coloured glazed tiles.  Even under grey skies this is ever such a pretty sight.  Many buildings in this part of Burgundy have these lovely tiles, but the Hotel-Dieu in Beaune is an exceptional example of this work which originated from Central Europe.

Hotel-Dieu with its pretty dormers and amazing roof tiles

The interior is now a museum, still furnished as a working hospital, originally for the poor, but also later for wealthier paying patients.  The hospital was operated by the Sisters of the Hospices of Beaune and their work is still carried on today, although in somewhat more modern buildings.

Hospital ward from times gone by - looks quite cozy!

After our visit to the Hotel-Dieu we enjoyed strolling the pedestrianised streets, poking about in the very interesting and varied shops, inspecting the town walls and of course finding Le Carnot brasserie where we had onion soup and boeuf bourgignon and Kristy's favourite, escargot.  On our last night in Burgundy we returned to this restaurant, (this time it was a beautiful sunny evening) and enjoyed another delicious meal at an outdoors table.  As usual the restaurant was packed and the atmosphere was very jolly - happy waiters and happy diners!

Saturday night in  Beaune - typical street scene

Dijon 

The mustard capital and indeed Dijon is surrounded by not only some very fine vineyards, but also many fields of mustard.  We drove the 45 kilometres to Dijon through the northern part of the Cote d'Or vineyards, passing by the famous domaines that surround the town of Nuits-St George, and managed to located an underground car park near the elaborate covered market that operates daily in the centre of Dijon.  The market sells every kind of food item imaginable as well as an array of clothing, homewares, plants, books - you name it!  Here we bought some of the best fruit of the trip - quite expensive but mouthwatering.

The lovely covered market in Dijon (designed by Gustav Eiffel, no less!)

With our bags full of goodies we wandered the streets of central Dijon for a while, checking out some mustard and pain d'epice (spice bread) shops (quite a few to choose from and certainly an endless choice of mustards), while following the brass owl plaques which indicate the scenic route through the city.  It seems that the owl is the symbol of Dijon - very cute too!

La Chouette, the Dijon owl symbol of good luck guides tourists through the city

We were in search of lunch by this time and settled ourselves outdoors at a nice looking restaurant just off the main square - in  Rue Francois Rude (poor man).

                                                     Shutters, window boxes and typical street sign - Dijon.

Lunch was lovely and we enjoyed sitting in the warm sun for a while, watching the passing parade - a pedestrian street so no noisy traffic.  After lunch we decided to hit the shops (sales still in full swing) and visited some very 21st century stores which were interspersed with lovely old medieval buildings.  Even Galleries Lafayette has a branch here - whoppeee!

Downtown Dijon

Dijon seems like a bustling and vibrant town and I am sure that there are many other places of interest to visit.  Loaded with shopping bags we were happy enough to head back to the car and negotiate our way through the narrow streets and back to the peaceful countryside.

Chalon-sur-Saone

Just 17 kilometres south-east of Chassagne-Montrachet is Chalon-sur-Soane, which as its name suggests, straddles the River Saone.  We planned to visit Chalon for some shopping and were very pleasantly surprised to find a very charming large town with an abundance of restaurants, pretty streets and squares and a market in full swing.  

Pretty streets of Chalon (lunchtime lull!)

I had some business to attend to at the large public library (printing some contracts to be returned to Australia - at the eye-watering cost of 58 euros, express post) so once that and a nice cup of coffee were taken care of we strolled through the streets. Of course it was lunch time so most stores were closed - what else could we do but have lunch.  The weather was lovely so we chose to dine outdoors (on the street really) and Madame, le proprietor, was very chatty and friendly, recommending her best dishes for us.  We were delighted with our meals - fresh, original and oh so tasty, along with ever-so-good local wine.  Madame told us that our ham dish and burgers were made to her own special recipe and they were certainly different from the standard fare.  Yum!

After lunch it was time for some serious shopping so we parted ways with a time and place to meet (at the end of the very long main street)!   Shopping was fun and there are always great bargains to be had during the French "soldes"season.  Out of nowhere, late in the afternoon, a violent storm hit the town, complete with hail and thunder.   Fortunately it didn't last too long and finally we set off for home with the sun shining again - very happy shoppers and a lovely day out in Chalon.  On the way out of town we spotted a Maisons du Monde shop - we will return!

Lunch in the sun - Chalon-sur-Saone

Biking in Burgundy

Burgundy is justifiably famous for its canals which were once part of a thriving trade network and they criss-cross the region , today providing great opportunities for boating, walking and cycling pursuits. The Canal du Centre which links the Saone and Loire Rivers passes through the village of Santenay, just 3 kilometres from our house and with bikes for rent at the  tourist office we were keen to ride the towpath and explore the countryside along the way. 

 Wheatfields, vines and the Santenay windmill - view from the canal tow path-

Cheryl and Kristy hired their bikes for the duration of our stay so we always had a handy means of transport to the boulangerie in Pulighny-Montrachet, but Cheryl B and I just had ours for the day as we had to drive to

the depot at Santenay.   The bikes were ok  and we had a fabulous day out. 

Heading out of Santenay

It was about a kilometre from the tourist office to the canal, which strangely enough was accessed by riding up a hill.  In this area the canal runs along the side of a hill on an embankment.  This means that we had the canal on one side and lovely views over the valley and towards the vine covered hills on the other as we rode towards Chagny - heading upstream.

View from the canal path across the fields to the vineyards near Santenay

  Along the way we came across a few picturesque canalside houses, but mostly it was fields, small shady copses, and stunning views.  Above all it was incredibly peaceful with only birdsong and the occasional putput of a canal boat as we sailed along the path - very easy riding!  The canal boats are limited to a speed of 8 km per hour so we flew past them waving to the holiday makers on board.  Everyone is very friendly with lots of "Bonjours" as we encountered fellow travellers.

Cheryl about to overtake a canal boat near Chagny

We arrived on the edge of Chagny, which is a bit industrial looking, and found the road into the centre of the village - lunch time and several small restaurants around the square looked inviting.  We chose a quasi-Italian place and sat outdoors enjoying a ravishingly good meal - or maybe it was just that we had all worked up very healthy appetites on our ride.  I was thrilled to have a Burgundy version of tartiflette with a crunchy salad - the cheese was reblochon and it was scrumptious!  After a walk around the town, stopping to admire some amazing garden art created out of (possibly) peach trees we cycled back to Santenay in the afternoon sunshine.

Basketweave stems creating tree art - Chagny

The morning cycle ride to Puligny-Montrachet for croissants was lovely - along little back roads through the fields of vines, many of which are bordered in ancient stone walls.  Later in the week Cheryl and Kristy rode along the canal again, this time heading south while Cheryl B and I contented ourselves with pottering at home and a walk around the village.  Cycling is certainly a delightful experience in this part of France.

Bike route back to Chassagne-Montrachet after croissant shopping.

Four Chateaux and and Abbey

Burgundy has a long history, being settled by the Romans in the 4th Century and later during the Middle Ages, the Duchy of Burgundy rivaled the crown of France in splendour and political influence.  As a result there are many stunning chateaux dotting the countryside, and a number of very important monasteries which still remain today, despite the ravages of the French revolution.  It would take months to visit them all so we chose a few that were close by and enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere and beauty of these places.

Chateauneuf-en-Auxois

-Approaching Chateauneuf throught the lovely Auxois countryside

Set on a hill overlooking the Burgundy Canal about 40 km west of Dijon, Chateauneuf-en-Auxois is one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France as well as the site of a towering tweflth century castle which looks rather grim from the outside and dominates the surrounding countryside.  The village is a collection of charming stone houses and cobble stone streets, and once across the grass moat into the castle courtyard it has a much friendlier look with fairy tale turrets and pretty dormers.

Chateauneuf village with its magnificent castle

  We strolled around the village, drank coffee in the little town square and admired the view over the lush countryside.

The Burgundy Canal, viewed from the village of Chateauneuf

  Certainly a very charming village where the brightly blooming flowers contrast beautifully with the stone buildings and the classic and now restored medieval castle looks every bit the medieval fortress.

Stonework and flowers - Chateauneuf

Sercy
We came across the Chateau of Sercy by accident as we travelled south along the D981 route towards Cluny.  This was our second surprise of the day, the first being sunflowers in full bloom near Chagny - our first encounter with fields actually flowering (a bit early in the summer perhaps).

.Sunflower field - symbol of summer in rural France

The small village of Sercy is unremarkable except for its very pretty lakeside chateau which is easily seen from the roadside - well worth a stop for a photo.  It has had a rather chequered history, being derelict and uninhabited for 200 of its 1000 years and somewhat ravaged by fires.  Today it is still privately owned and only open for visits at certain times.  Yet another enchanting castle- in a beautiful setting!

The lovely Chateau de Sercy in the Saone-et-Loire department of Burgundy

Cormartin
About an hour's drive south of our house is the village of Cormatin and the exquisite chateau of the same name.  Cheryl B. discovered this gem on the Internet and we set off on a lovely sunny day to pay a visit.  Although a lesser known chateau and not very large, Cormatin is nevertheless very well preserved and has in addition to some finely furnished rooms, a large and beautiful garden.

One wing of the Chateau Cormatin, viewed from the English garden.

We bought our tickets and were advised that a guided tour would commence fairly soon, just giving us time to firstly inspect the wonderful potager which is laid out behind the old stables.  This is every veggie gardeners dream - a riot of flowers, vegetables, and fruit trees interspersed with grassy walks and topiary hedging.  Part of the stables has been converted to a small cafe so one can sit in the garden  and enjoy the bounty.

Potager and stables at Cormatin Castle

The ringing of a bell summoned us to our guided tour of the chateau - in French - but our guide spoke good English and gave us some explanations on the side.  The furnishings are very elaborate and original to the chateau - some interesting collections and a jumble of colour and textures.

A grand boudoir in the chateau -quite cosy really, for a castle

After inspecting the interior rooms we strolled about the lovely English garden and made our way to the maze, climbing its folly for a great view over the whole property.  It is beautifully maintained, not overcrowded with tourists and a real pleasure to visit.

View over the moat to the English garden and the folly in the maze

We sat on the terrace of  a busy restaurant opposite the entrance to the chateau and enjoyed a tasty lunch and an interesting chat with an American couple who had walked into the village from the famous retreat at Taize, which is visited by thousands of pilgrims during the summer.  From Cormatin we drove a little further south to the abbey town of Cluny.

Cluny
Cluny was the centre of a major Benedictine monastic movement from 910 AD and before St Peter's Basilica in Rome was rebuilt in the 16th Century, its abbey was the largest Christian building in the world.  Sadly much of the abbey has been destroyed and only one transept remains, along with the convent buildings.  The remaining part of the abbey is very large and 3D screens give a very good idea of how substantial this building was.  It is a wonderful building to tour and in the courtyard of the convent we were treated to some beautiful singing  - probably a rehearsal of some event to come.  One can only imagine how imposing the abbey must once have been!

Cluny Abbey - ruins and restoration

After our visit to the abbey we enjoyed exploring the streets of this very pleasant town and also enjoyed delicious ice-cream before driving back to Chassagne-Montrachet with the evening sun casting a lovely golden glow over the countryside.

One of the lovely shopping streets of Cluny

La Rochepot

Only a ten minute drive from our house is another beautifully restored small chateau which also sits high on a hill above the village of La Rochepot. 

La Rochepot village

 We climbed the tower and visited the rooms on display, admired the view of the valley below from the terrace, saw the kitchens and oohed and aaahed over the pretty garden.  The fabulous roof tiles are also a very striking feature of the chateau.

The courtyard of La Rochepot Chateau from the tower

  The thing that really blew us away however was the stunning series of photographs which showed how a group of volunteers worked tirelessly in the early 20th Century to rebuild this almost totally derelict chateau.  What a feat of determination and sheer hard work.  And what a result!  The castle now belongs to Burgundy and it is an absolute gem.  The setting is gorgeous - we walked through a forest from the car park to arrive at the drawbridge.  It is fantastic that these wonderful structures can be saved by a few dedicated people.  These days there is a huge fund administered by  the French government for the restoration of historical buildings - and rightly so. 

La Rochepot is surrounded by gorgeous countryside

And so our week in Burgundy came to an end.  We have been so fortunate to have had a wonderful and comfortable house from which to explore the towns, villages and countryside of one of the loveliest regions of France.  The weather was kind - without the odd shower the fields would not be so green and lush, and of course the abundant sunshine is perfect for grapes, sunflowers, mustard and wheat.  Over the hills from our village the green pastures are home to Charolais cattle and sheep.  An abundant and fertile land!  We have loved every minute here.

Burgundy Flowers!