Back to France

Tuesday 16 June

After a week in Bad Salzhausen  it feels wonderful to be back on French soil.  We drove for 6 hours today, circling around the industrial Rhone conurbations of Frankfurt and Mainz, negotitating endless roadwaorks on German autobahns and crossing throught the border hills and into the north-east of France near Metz.  Immediately the roads and roadside facilities improved (thanks to the peage system no doubt) and we enjoyed zooming south-west through the French countryside,  The fields, and forests have the fresh green hues of early summer and plentiful rainfall, with young  crops shooting up out of the fertile soils of the Lorraine region.  The weather today was slightly overcast but fine and warm.  We stopped only for service centre coffee (surprisingly good) and a sandwich, eager to reach our destination, the Cote d'Or wine village of Pommard, just south of Beaune. As we turned up the lane leading into Pommard, Caroline was overcome with the onslaught of charm and beauty - the sudden rise to the hills of the Cote d'Or reveals neat hectares of vines, kilometres of high pale stone walls and little villages dominated by tall church spires, nestled into hollows in the landscape.

Cote d'Or, Burgundy

Down the lane into Pommard

The narrow wall-enclosed lane into Pommard opens up suddenly to reveal the beautiful Chateau de Pommard wine domaine and then our little hotel, Hotel du Pont, on the corner of the main thoroughfare.  The whole village is a mix of pretty terrace houses and grand maisons half hidden behind lovely old metal gates.

Chateau de Pommard

   A few locals were enjoying an apero on the terrace of Hotel du Pont as we checked in - up a narrow stone staircase to a quaint, ancient but beautifully renovated little suite with windows overlooking the busy intersection.  Although bustling at this hour we felt that being a working agricultural town, early to bed would be the go - sure enough it was - with early to rise thrown in for good measure.
No restaurant open in the village so we made the short journey into the centre of Beaune in search of dinner. Beaune was lively but not overcrowded and we made our way through the pedestrianised centre to a cosy brassierie, Le Carnot, where the wait staff were super friendly, the ambience was wonderful and the food simple but very, very tasty.  I had a delicious bowl of onion soup and Caroline chose escargot along with an interesting goats cheese and red fruit salad  - all washed down with a glass of Saint-Veran white ( a local wine).  To follow we shared a decadent tarte tatin  (I love apple desserts in France) - served with lashings of creme chantilly and vanilla ice cream.
Tired after our long journey, we didn't linger in Beaune but headed back to Pommard and our super comfy beds.

Beaune

Wednesday 17 June

A gloriously sunny morning and after a light, delicious breakfast served with great charm by the lovely young man in the bar area of the hotel we set out to explore a few of the little villages of the Cote d'Or before driving south to Uzes.  The vineyards were busy places this morning with people everywhere spraying, pruning and otherwise tending to the vines - such a precious commodity in this part of the world.

Fantastic vine spraying machine 

  First stop was the garden of the Chateau de  Pommard - exquisite! The contrast betwwen the clipped box hedges and the flowers tumbling in a riot of colour over the edges of the beds is very satisfying.

Gardens of Chateau de Pommard

We drove high above pretty Volnay for a splendid view over the Saone Valley and then on to the very notable villages of Mersault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet - the wine from domaines in this part of the Cote d'Or is very good (and very expensive!).

A wonderful landscape more Cote d'Or vines and villages

  It was a shame to leave all this idyllic scenery but the tyranny of distance interrupted our wanderings and we took to the Autoroute du Soleil - hopefully we were heading for more sunshine.

Country roads, Burgundy

Negotiating Lyon was the usual slow and tedious part of the trip south but eventually we made it into the Gard and our overnight stop at Uzes.  It was a joy to see the early lavender in the Rhone Valley as we sped along the autoroute in the Drome department.

Lavender fields in the Drome

Despite the warmth and the sunshine the wind was really blowing  - the end of a Mistral we were told.  Unfortunately my throat virus was a lot worse this evening and Caroline took me to a local doctor who prescribed a basketful of medication to deal with what had become an infection.  We were both quite tired and opted to skip dinner and rest at our lovely hotel on the edge of town - a very kind and hospitable host was most helpful and concerned.  Uzes is not far from Avignon, in the middle of a rich agricultural area - peaches, melons, cherries, apricots, strawberries all being offered at roadside stands.

Thursday 18 June
Another warm and sunny day in the south with a little less wind today.  Uzes is a typical old southern town - narrow streets, shady tree lined squares, pavement cafes and this morning bustling with activity.  It is lovely to amble along taking in the sights, sounds and smells (coffee and croissants).

Main street - Uzes

 There is a grand old palace with views over the surrounding countryside and the jumble of rooftops of the old town.

The Window Tower of Uzes

  We decided to combine breakfast and lunch at charming boulangerie - coffee and quiche at a pavement table. We lingered watching the world and his dog go by - as you do!

Shady square, Uzes

 There was a consensus that we liked Uzes a lot but all too soon it was time to press on. After a rather cursory viewing of some of the historic buildings we were on our way again - towards Beaucaire, Arles and then the autoroute across Provence towards Nice.

Uzes - a lovely town for wandering

  We made a short stop in Beaucaire for a cold drink beside the canal which was full of moored river boats (it is near the delta of the Rhone River).

Beaucaire

Still driving south to connect with an autoroute, we skirted the flat lands of the Camargue and were delighted to catch a glimpse of some of the famous white horses grazing in a field.  By the time we were by-passing Aix-en-Provence the plains of the Camargue had given way to forested hills and valleys with the stark rocky peak of Mount Sainte-Victoire dominating the landscape (Cezanne's favourite haunt).

Mount Sainte-Victoire, near Aix-en-Provence

The rest of the journey to Vence went quickly and soon we were in the peak hour traffic and heading up into the heavily populated hills behind Cannes and Nice.

View from Hotel Diana, Vence

  Another one way road system almost stumped us but a couple of strategically placed signs directed us to Hotel Diana on the edge of the old town.  Our room was spacious and comfortable, the staff spoke only French and the view from the terrace was amazing.  Taking advantage of the balmy evening we strolled through the ancient quarter - narrow twisting lanes, very close-quarter living - all facing inwards away from the spectacular views.

A surprising little garden, Vence

  The mountains rise above Vence to the north and the Mediterranean sparkles below in the south.  Restaurants everywhere but we liked the look of a pretty and busy one on the town square - good choice - the meal was delicious and the live music very cool.

Wonderful dinner in Vence

Tried the local wine - yum - we haven't had a bad one yet.  Tonight we were once again in bed before dark.  An early start tomorrow to meet Cheryl and Christie at Nice Airport ( not far away).  Our journey from Bad Salzhausen to Vence has been mostly confined to autoroutes but we have thoroughly enjoyed our little stopovers  and we have been blessed with magnificent sunny weather all the way.  So glad we decided to take the route through France!

Vence from the hotel roof terrace