Collioure

Sunday 14 and Monday 15 September

We have not moved from Collioure over the past two days and have enjoyed a rest from driving.  It is lovely to go downstairs and out the door into the bustling streets of this beautiful town.  A good chance for Gerri's knees to recover as well.  

The square outside our Collioure home

On Sunday morning Collioure was very busy as it is one of the market days of the week.  As French markets go this is one of the best with lovely fresh produce and interesting local crafts as well as an assortment of the usual clothes from Italy and jewellery from who knows where. I went to the market quite early to buy strawberries, quiche, and a big bunch of lisianthus - purple and white -so pretty, but later in the morning the whole market area was packed with shoppers.

Collioure market

All the town shops were open too - unusual for a Sunday in France, but with so many visitors it is obviously a good trading day.  There were lots of musicians playing in the streets - Spanish guitarists, a brass band, a saxaphone player - all adding to the jolly atmosphere.  Come lunch time the restaurants were doing a roaring trade.  There seem to be a large number of holiday makers here and of course many people who live in the area visit Collioure on the weekends.

Festive streets of Collioure

The day was hot and sunny so the rocky little beaches were also crowded.  The water is crystal clear and looks very inviting.  I wandered about with my camera, checked out all the shops and then went home to collapse on the roof terrace while Gerri took the opportunity to have a very restful day.

Old bell tower, Collioure

Late in the afternoon it clouded over a bit but the town did not slow down until quite late and the evening was really balmy.

Evening cloud, Collioure

Monday morning was bright and sunny again, but with Gerri still suffering with sore knees we decided to have another day at home.  A good chance to catch up on laundry.  I took myself off for a long walk along the coast road towards Port Vendres, the next town, but didn't go all the way as it was getting very hot.

Collioure - from the coast road

View across to Collioure

On the way home I stopped for a galette and a nice cold glass of the local white.  The heat finally persuaded me to head home for a siesta.  Although not as crowded as the weekend, Collioure was still busy today.

One of the beaches at Collioure

 Late in the afternoon a thunder storm rolled in from the mountains which cooled things down a little.  As evening fell we took ourselves for a stroll to the harbour and sat for ages having coffee by the water.  It is so beautiful to watch the lights coming on a the day fades.  High on the hills the old windmill and the stone walls of Fort Saint Elme were softly illuminated.

The windmill which overlooks Collioure

 The bell tower of the church is also spectacularly lit at night.  With its backdrop of mountains, colourful houses and massive waterside chateau, Collioure is certainly one of the gems of the Mediterranean. It is not surprising that so many artists chose to work here and in the early 1900's the town became a centre of the Fauvist movement led by Matisse.  Many other celebrated artists also worked in Collioure, including Picasso, Dali and Charles Rennie Mackintosh and today it is still a haven for artists.   Our house here was once the home of artist, Henri Frere and the large third floor room where I am sleeping was his studio.  It is a wonderful airy space with doors onto both roof terraces.  The house is owned now by Sebastien Frere, son of Henri, and also an artist and ceramicist.