Venturing into the Aveyron

Sunday 7 September

We are staying in the north eastern part of the department of Tarn-et-Garonne very close to another department of the Midi Pyrenees called Aveyron - same name as the river that flows through St Antonin.  Aveyron is to my mind one of the most beautiful departments in France with a marvellous landscape of rolling hills and picturesque farms interspersed with deep forested river valleys and wild remote areas.  There are also a large number of lovely villages and towns and today we ventured into the part of the Aveyron closest to our home base - and a gorgeously sunny day it was too.
We drove alongside the river for a while and then turned up a narrow little road and through the forest climbing steadily out of the valley.  After a while we suddenly came across the stunning sight of the village of Najac, perched on a narrow ridge above a steep valley and dominated by the tower of a very impressive castle.

Najac main street and chateau

 It was possible to park at the top of the village, right in the market square, and then walk down the long main street towards the chateau.  Sunday is market day in Najac so there was plenty of activity as we browsed the stalls - I bought some tomatoes grown by a sweet lady in her garden and they were totally delicious.  Gerri brought raspberries which we proceeded to devour enthusiastically.  A couple of walkers were resting in the square with their pretty donkeys laden with packs - I guess Stephenson's tales of walking with his donkey in the Cevennes is quite inspirational.

Sweet travelling donkeys resting in Najac

 The houses of Najac are really charming and the view down the street to the chateau is pretty awesome.  Najac certainly deserves its place as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France!  We walked down the hill past the old stone houses and then while Gerri sat in the shade and wrote postcards (sensible) I walked up the next hill to the chateau which was built by the Counts of Toulouse in the 13th century.

Path to  the chateau, Najac

 The views from the entrance are fantastic and although it is apparently very well preserved, I didn't go inside, instead met up with Gerri and we drove on to the main town of the Rouergue area, Villefranche-de Rouergue.

Najac village
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Although a much larger town straddling the banks of the the Averyon River, being Sunday it was very quiet, except for one busy restaurant beside a particularly lovely stone bridge (pedestrians only).  We sat beneath the huge shady elms and plane trees and ate a very tasty lunch - omelette and croque monsieur and then strolled a little into the town which has typically pedestrianised narrow streets in the centre.  A rather pleasant city on a lovely sunny afternoon.

River Aveyron at Villefranche-de-Rouergue

Continuing on through the Aveyron we headed southeast to the area called Segala, the land of a hundred valleys.  Here the valleys are heavily forested and the high plateau fields are home to fine beef cattle.  The farms look lush and prosperous and the villages are delightful.  Obviously a good place to be a French farmer.  We eventually reached the jewel of Segala, the Plus Beaux town of Sauveterre-de-Rouergue, which is a tranquil village of pale stone houses and flowers.

Sauveterre-de-Rouergue

  Today the tranquility was somewhat shattered by racing cars zooming about the perimeter of the town.  We managed to enjoy a stroll through the town and then carried on south and eventually west towards our home in Saint Antonin.

Flowers of Sauveterre-de-Rouergue

Our final stop for the day was another Plus Beaux village, Monesties, which is again very ancient and a curious mix of derelict houses and flower bedecked well maintained homes.

Moneties

  By now it was late afternoon and very hot so we were glad to walk into our house which is kept so nice and cool by the thick stone walls.  The Aveyron department is a land of great contrasts and huge historical significance.  It is also the heart of a thriving agricultural industry which sustains much of France and as a place for a scenic drive it is hard to beat.

Ancient wall, Monesties