Lazy Days in Positano

Sunday 28 June - Friday 3 July

Somehow we all managed to arrive in Naples over the weekend to begin our week in Positano - Caroline via road trip from northern Italy (with Cheryl and Christy who have now returned to London), Jess from London, Alex and Zac from Australia and moi, from Frankfurt.  Still to come Aurora and Amy from New Zealand and Stefano from Azerbaijan (with a London stopover).  Bit of a mission really, but here we are in sunny Italy.

Heading around the Bay of Naples from the airport - Mt Vesuvius dominating.

It is not far from Naples Airport to Positano but the twisting, hilly, scary road makes for slow going and glorious views.

View from the car on the road to Positano

  Found our villa easily - only one vehicle road in Positano which loops up and around in a circle (one way).   We are two-thirds of the way down the steep hill on the western side of town, directly above the smaller of two beaches (Fornillo).  A fantastic location - away from the hustle and noise of the downtown area, but within easy walking distance of everything.  And if trudging uphill home is too much, there is a cute little bus, Interno Positano, which will deposit us virtually at our front door.

View from our terrace

We met Gaetano, our landlord who is charming and very helpful, and settled in - we have the middle level of a huge villa - 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, kitchen, living room and huge terrace with endless views over the houses that tumble down the hillside to the sea.  Behind us jagged peaks soar skywards to dizzying heights.  What a landscape!

Looking up from the terrace

  The sea and sky are brilliant blue, the mountain vegetation is still green from winter rains and there are intensely hued flowers everywhere.  The area is renowned for lemons and they are mind-boggling - the size of melons!  Sweet, juicy and delicious!

World's best lemons!

 So, we settled in and then took ourselves down the hill to the centre of town, ogling at the views around every corner.

On the road to the centre of Positano

  The centre is pedestrians only with steep little lanes leading down to the sea.  Shops seem to feature clothes or lemon-themed souvenirs.

Limoncello anyone?

  On the way down we happened upon a restaurant with a shady terrace that drew us in - for the rest of the week La Zagara became our favourite watering/feeding hole - great coffee, tasty food, friendly service and lovely surroundings.  No sea view but cool and refreshing with views up to the mountains, spray mist to keep us cool and leafy vines overhead.

Lunch at La Zagara

We finally made it to the beach - lovely (?) dark grey gravel beach, lots of beach clubs (sunbeds and brollies), cafes, boats coming and going and of course the crystal clear blue, blue water.

The "big" beach at Positano

The week has been mostly lounging on the terrace or on sunbeds at the beach,

Relaxing at Fornilo Beach

 savouring the wonderful Italian food,

Snack with a view - across the street from our place

 swimming, browsing in the shops and generally chilling out.

Fornillo Beach

  It is so nice to be all together, enjoying the sunshine and the scenery.  We are content to be here but have spent one day venturing a little further along the coast and have a private boat tour booked for Saturday to Capri.   The car has been safely locked up in a parking garage for the week - no fun driving around here!

Amalfi

On Wednesday we took ourselves to Amalfi town for the day, catching the ferry - what an awesome 25 minute trip along the coast.  From the sea the mountains are breathtaking and the little villages which cling to the steep slopes seem to be built in impossibly difficult terrain.

Leaving Positano - our place is up there in the middle above Fornillo Beach

  The road along the coast was originally constructed about 100 years ago with an upgrade in the last 40 years.  It certainly deserves its fame as one of the world's beautiful drives (probably best as a passenger!).
  The approach to Amalfi is quite spectacular - the mountains behind the town are especially high and jagged.

Approaching Amalfi Town

  We disembarked and made our way from the busy coastal road to the piazza which is dominated by a very elaborate church.   The usual mix of restaurants, souvenir shops and scooters whizzing about was immediately evident in the narrow streets leading off the piazza.  After a bit of browsing in shops we found a restaurant that appealed and settled in for lunch - delicious pizza, salad and a nice glass of wine followed by pretty good coffee.  Amalfi is not as pretty as Positano and a much more commercial centre catering to the needs of local people as well as tourists.

I think the hibiscus want to compete with the lemons!

Next stop was Ravello, a beautiful town high in the mountains which we reached by bus - a hair-raising trip - but with lovely views over the lemon groves and into the valleys below.

Up through the lemon groves to Ravello 

  The views that greeted us as we left the bus were astounding, breathtaking, mind-boggling - you name it!

First view from Ravello - looking eastwards

Ravello is 365 metres above sea level and the panorama extends both ways along the peninsula - and straight down, I should add.  We walked past the entrance to the Ruffalo Gardens where a music festival (sold out long ago) is being held through the summer months and into the pretty piazza - more views, this time towards higher slopes covered with vines and pretty houses.  What a feast for the eyes!

Hills behind Ravello

From the piazza there is a lovely twenty minute walk to the very famous Villa Cimbrone  Hotel which boasts more views to die for and a beautiful English style garden.

On the path to Villa Cimbrone

  The 7 euro entrance fee is a small price to pay for the pleasure of wandering in the gorgeous gardens and taking in the spectacle of the views.  The hotel buildings are very lovely too and blend seamlessly with the natural beauty.

The gang at Villa Cimbrone

  It was really nice to be here with only a small number of other visitors - I can imagine what it is like in the height of summer.  The gardens are a mix of flowers (daisies, lavender, agapanthus, roses - all pretty common really, but so attractively displayed) and a wonderful mix of trees from every continent, including Australia.

In the gardens of Villa Cimbrone

Garden with a view!

 It was a joy to wander the shady paths on a hot sunny day and glimpse tantalising views of the blue waters below.
At the end of the garden on the cliff tops is a viewing area with magnificent views - a bit of a worry for those with vertigo - be brave, it's worth every scary moment!

Clifftop view - Cimbrone

  What a dream place!

And a scarily long way down!

Conscious of the time and the last ferry back to Positano we forked out for a taxi ride down the hill with entertainment included in the form of a very chatty and opinionated driver - but nevertheless interesting to hear about local life in the area.  Most of the population rely on summer tourism for income and have little to do in the winter months unless they can travel away to get work.  We certainly felt the sting of the need for the tourist dollar when we paid 18 euros for three cold drinks in the square in Amalfi town.  Tried the so called famous lemon cakes of the region called delizie - they are sickly sweet and totally disgusting!

 I browsed in the shops - nothing really appealed - all seem to sell the same things and the others went for a swim, then it was back on the ferry to Positano with more amazing views of the coastline,

Leaving Amalfi town

 We stopped for dinner at La Zagara and then collapsed on our terrace to watch the sun set and enjoy the balmy evening.

Sailing back into Positano

  Aurora and Amy, due to arrive at noon tomorrow, but flight delays mean that they won't get in to Naples until 10.45 pm - we will drive to meet them as the traffic should be light at that time of night.   Stefano is due in on Friday night so another trip to the airport needed but it will be good to have everyone here.
Another beach day on Thursday - it is wonderful to have nothing in particular to do except enjoy the surroundings.  In the evening Alex, Zac and I drove to Sorrento en route to the airport.   We were surprised to find that it is a rather large town with a big port and a row of ritzy hotels lined along the clifftops.  We eventually negotiated our way through the armada of scooters to the central piazza and found a handy parking spot.  The whole town appeared to be out shopping and enjoying the many bars and restaurants - a lively and happy atmosphere as the sun began to set.

Sorrento

  We managed a spot of shopping in one of the narrow little lanes - some souvenirs and a stunning leather handbag for Alex.  The shopping here is much better than in Positano or Amalfi stores which are limited and expensive.  Strangely enough a lot of the Italian "fashion" in the shops there can be found in French markets for about one third the price! As darkness fell we found a place to eat on the piazza - appropriately named Aurora Light!  I had a very interesting Italian version of Croque Monsieur ( really tasty but no doubt hard on the arteries) and then we headed for Naples airport to collect two very excited, running on adrenalin young ladies from New Zealand (my niece Aurora and her friend Amy).  Due to their flight rescheduling in Singapore they had the opportunity to see something of Frankfurt which was an unexpected bonus (or not - Germany is in the grips of a heat wave and air con is almost non-existent).
Friday was a bit of a recovery day after a very late night - lunch at La Zagara, swimming and beach.

Amy and Aurora - lemoning it up at La Zagara

 What more could one want.

Lovely Positano

   In the evening Caroline, Jess and I set off for the airport once again - this time we have beaten the weird ramblings of the GPS and know our way there and back by the shortest route.   A real bonus was the brilliant coral red sunset over the Bay of Naples as we drove down towards Sorrento - unfortunately no chance to stop for photos on the narrow road.
Stefano's flight was almost on time and it was lovely to see him again (especially for Jess). Poor guy has been travelling for the best part of two days - from Azerbaijan, where he was working, to London, to Milan and finally to Naples.  We have a big day planned for tomorrow - the only day when the whole gang will be together. Stefano assures us he is up for it!  Well, all he has to do really is to chill out on a boat and occasionally fall in the water.

Life on the terrace!

Mountains and Lakes

Sunday 21 June

The view from our hotel balcony was even more gorgeous this morning with the sun shining on Isola San Giulio  and our breakfast terrace encompassing a wide panorama of this enchanting little lake.

Breakfast on the terrace, Hotel La Bussola

 After breakfast we took Foxy the Dalmation for a walk along the lakeside path in the opposite direction from the village.  The path led down past some farms to the water’s edge – I love it that Lake Orta is so tranquil and not highly populated.  Just a few walkers, a couple kayaking and the glassy waters reflecting the mountains.  So glad we are able to stay here for a few days.

Caroline and Foxy - and beautiful Lake Orta

With sunshine forecast we thought a trip through the mountains to Stresa on Lake Maggiore would fit nicely into the day.   Orta and Maggiore are separated by mountainous terrain although it is possible to drive north along Lake Orta and to reach the much larger lake via the Toce River valley.  It is not far – about 30 kilometres.   Our hotel hosts suggested taking the mountain route for the views and the possibility of visiting Alpyland en route so we took their advice and made the climb through forests and fields to Mattarone (1200 metres).

Mattarone

  As promised, the views are stupendous in all directions, to both lakes and the high mountains in the north.

Lake Orta and tiny Isola San Giulio

 The Alps were partly cloud covered but we were able to glimpse some of the snowy peaks.  Most intriguing were the large numbers of people sunbaking in the alpine meadows as we neared the summit – perhaps they were just trying to be nearer to the sun!  At various points along the winding road we were able to pull over and take in the views.  Little Lake Orta and its tiny island is to the west and huge Lake Maggiore with its many large towns lies to the east.  This is a heavily populated area of Italy and southern Switzerland - there are a number of industrial cities nearby and of course the scenery and climate are quite idyllic.

Verbania, Lake Maggiore

We parked at Alpyland and decided to brave the mechanical luge type ride that is the big attraction at the summit.  For 5 euros one is strapped into a sled kind of contraption that is firmly (hopefully) anchored to a metal track.  The ride commences with a long haul up to 1400 metres and then careers downhill in a series of hairpin bends and almost sheer drops – very adrenalin heavy!

Alpyland

 Fortunately the occupants of the sleds are able to control the speed of descent so the rider is not totally at the mercy of gravity.  Sitting at the top waiting for one’s turn is the scariest part – it feels like being at the top of the world, looking out over a vast open space.  So glad I plucked up the courage to make this ride –  a bit of an achievement for me but I always felt safe and it was definitely worth the scariness.  Of course I took it slowly – Christy, Caroline and Cheryl all went hurtling down the mountainside, loving every minute!

Scary or what?  Top of the run, Alpyland

After this bit of excitement we drove down the mountain, through a national park (7 euros please to drive this road) towards Stresa on Lake Maggiore.  Once again there were amazing views, beautiful forest and as we got to the lower slopes, some splendid mansions surrounded by magnificent gardens.  The lakes area, although at the base of some of Europe’s highest mountains, is a micro-climate and there is a diverse range of flora from palm trees to mountain spruces.  The flowers all seem to have the most intense colour and bloom profusely.

Lake Maggiore - from above Stresa - towards Borromean Islands and Switzerland

We finally reached Stresa and after a bit of cruising through one way streets found our way to the lakeshore and the parking area for boat trips to the Borromean Islands – our next destination.  After just a short wait we were all aboard for the short trip to Isola del Pescatori (Fisherman’s Island) which lies just off the town of Stresa.

Isola del Pescatori

  Being Sunday there were plenty of day trippers arriving on this little gem in the middle of the lake but despite this the atmosphere of the place was very laid back. First stop, a lakeside restaurant for lunch – all that mountain air had given us healthy appetites.

Caroline and Cheryl - ready for lunch!

  It was pure joy to sit by the crystal clear waters enjoying delicious food – pear and walnut salad, seafood pasta, lasagne and a nice local white wine - and feasting our eyes on the distant mountains.  Does the amazing scenery make the food taste better?  Or is it just the freshness of the ingredients in France and Italy?  I’ll swear it is not just the imagination!

Lovely lunch spot - Isola del Pescatori

After lunch we strolled right around the island – it does seem a little more gentrified than when I was last here (in the 1980’s) but it is still enchanting.  Of course there is the usual plethora of little souvenir shops but it is very easy to find a quiet spot to sit and contemplate the views  - today we could see up the valley towards Domodossola, the Simplon Pass and the Matterhorn - one route through to Switzerland.

View towards Ferriola and the Alps from Isola del Pescatori

  The lake was busy with little sailing boats and everyone was having a simply fantastic Sunday afternoon.

Island strolling

Next stop on our lake excursion was the Isola Bella, just a few minutes away from Pescatori and site of a grand palace and an over-the-top manicured garden.

The palace, Isola Bella

  Although it was 15 euros each to tour the palace and the gardens we were keen to see the main event – the famous white peacocks – so handed over our cash.  The palace was splendid in a very unhomely kind of way – vast rooms, uncomfortable furniture and dozens of ancestor portraits peering down at us.  Very much a “look at me, look at me” kind of place.  Interesting nevertheless – I hope the current owners (the descendants of the Dukes of Borromeo) have a nice cosy apartment in the palace. 

We finally reached the gardens which are a strange mix of beautiful trees and shrubs collected from around the world and some rather garish stone grottos adorned with huge statues of various provenance.

Isola Bella Gardens

Fanciful grotto Isola Bella Gardens

 And there were the peacocks – oh wow!  These rather snooty birds are pure white and enormous.  And very, very beautiful!  They lounge about on the lawns, or sit on stone walls, tolerating the visitors and the constant clicking of cameras.  As the church bells rang out on the hour many of them joined in with rather plaintive cries, but they soon settled back to their leisurely ways.

"Look at me, look at me!"

As we did not want to miss the last boat back to Stresa our visit to Isola Bella was cut short and we headed into the main square of Stresa in search of gelato.  The square was busy and the restaurants beginning to fill up (apero time).  We were spoiled for choice when it came to gelato and checked out several shops before choosing.   My favourite is amarena (cherry) and it was scrumptuous.  Cheryl was keen to try basil and mango but could only find basil and passionfruit – ok but not exceptional.  And there was Hotel Elena where we stayed with small children back in 1985 - ah the memories!

Main square, Stresa (Hotel Elena on the left)

Happy to call it a day, we drove back to Orta San Giulio via the valley and along the eastern side of the lake.  After a lovely lunch and gelato we decided to forgo dinner and settled for an early night.  All this wonderfulness can be a bit tiring!

Monday 22 June

Not quite so sunny today, but still warm and pleasant at Lake Orta.  A quiet day planned – no car trips, just some strolling  and a little boat ride to Isola San Giulio.

Wandering down to the village

It was nice to have a leisurely look around the village, to check out the shops (not many) and admire the architecture and beautiful faded colours of the buildings which blend so harmoniously.

Sweet village houses

 The main square which faces onto the lake always seems busy although it is not overrun with tourists.  Today there was a wedding taking place with lots of beautifully attired guests wandering about.

View from Orta San Giulio to the island

After checking out the town we caught the ferry across to Isola San Giulio where there is a large still operating Benedictine monastery and very little else – only one restaurant and a few lakefront houses.

Orta San Giulio from the ferry boat

View to Orta San Giulio from the island boat ramp

  We made the circuit of the island, taking care to observe the signs for silence, peeked into the rather ornate church and then caught the boat back.

Monastery precinct, Isola San Giulio

 Lunch today in the square overlooking the lake – just a salad as we had a booking for one of the best restaurants in the evening - our final night all together.

Lunch in the square

 Our route home was around the lake instead of straight up the hill.

Scenic route home

 The girls had booked massages at the hotel for late afternoon  - Cheryl and I enjoyed a nice cup of tea on the terrace and then we luxuriated in a couple of hours rest before dinner. 

Dinner turned out to be superb – mine was beef filet with Bernaise sauce cooked to perfection.  The local wine was rather good too and the service was superb. Such lovely finale to our stay at Lake Orta. 

Hotel La Bussola on the hill - highly recommended

Sadly I will say good bye to Cheryl and Christy in the morning as I must fly from Milan back to Germany while they carry on with Caroline to Lakes Como and Garda, and then to Assisi.  I will be meeting the rest of the family in Naples next Sunday.  We have had a fantastic time together over the past few days, seen some gorgeous scenery, enjoyed some glorious food and had lots of laughs.  Just what the doctor ordered, although unfortunately Caroline now has a cold which is not what we wanted.  I hope she will not be too unwell  - she will be the driver throughout the rest of the journey south.  This is has been the best hotel of our journey and one of the loveliest places to visit in all of Europe.  Definitely on the "return to" list!