Mountains and Lakes

Sunday 21 June

The view from our hotel balcony was even more gorgeous this morning with the sun shining on Isola San Giulio  and our breakfast terrace encompassing a wide panorama of this enchanting little lake.

Breakfast on the terrace, Hotel La Bussola

 After breakfast we took Foxy the Dalmation for a walk along the lakeside path in the opposite direction from the village.  The path led down past some farms to the water’s edge – I love it that Lake Orta is so tranquil and not highly populated.  Just a few walkers, a couple kayaking and the glassy waters reflecting the mountains.  So glad we are able to stay here for a few days.

Caroline and Foxy - and beautiful Lake Orta

With sunshine forecast we thought a trip through the mountains to Stresa on Lake Maggiore would fit nicely into the day.   Orta and Maggiore are separated by mountainous terrain although it is possible to drive north along Lake Orta and to reach the much larger lake via the Toce River valley.  It is not far – about 30 kilometres.   Our hotel hosts suggested taking the mountain route for the views and the possibility of visiting Alpyland en route so we took their advice and made the climb through forests and fields to Mattarone (1200 metres).

Mattarone

  As promised, the views are stupendous in all directions, to both lakes and the high mountains in the north.

Lake Orta and tiny Isola San Giulio

 The Alps were partly cloud covered but we were able to glimpse some of the snowy peaks.  Most intriguing were the large numbers of people sunbaking in the alpine meadows as we neared the summit – perhaps they were just trying to be nearer to the sun!  At various points along the winding road we were able to pull over and take in the views.  Little Lake Orta and its tiny island is to the west and huge Lake Maggiore with its many large towns lies to the east.  This is a heavily populated area of Italy and southern Switzerland - there are a number of industrial cities nearby and of course the scenery and climate are quite idyllic.

Verbania, Lake Maggiore

We parked at Alpyland and decided to brave the mechanical luge type ride that is the big attraction at the summit.  For 5 euros one is strapped into a sled kind of contraption that is firmly (hopefully) anchored to a metal track.  The ride commences with a long haul up to 1400 metres and then careers downhill in a series of hairpin bends and almost sheer drops – very adrenalin heavy!

Alpyland

 Fortunately the occupants of the sleds are able to control the speed of descent so the rider is not totally at the mercy of gravity.  Sitting at the top waiting for one’s turn is the scariest part – it feels like being at the top of the world, looking out over a vast open space.  So glad I plucked up the courage to make this ride –  a bit of an achievement for me but I always felt safe and it was definitely worth the scariness.  Of course I took it slowly – Christy, Caroline and Cheryl all went hurtling down the mountainside, loving every minute!

Scary or what?  Top of the run, Alpyland

After this bit of excitement we drove down the mountain, through a national park (7 euros please to drive this road) towards Stresa on Lake Maggiore.  Once again there were amazing views, beautiful forest and as we got to the lower slopes, some splendid mansions surrounded by magnificent gardens.  The lakes area, although at the base of some of Europe’s highest mountains, is a micro-climate and there is a diverse range of flora from palm trees to mountain spruces.  The flowers all seem to have the most intense colour and bloom profusely.

Lake Maggiore - from above Stresa - towards Borromean Islands and Switzerland

We finally reached Stresa and after a bit of cruising through one way streets found our way to the lakeshore and the parking area for boat trips to the Borromean Islands – our next destination.  After just a short wait we were all aboard for the short trip to Isola del Pescatori (Fisherman’s Island) which lies just off the town of Stresa.

Isola del Pescatori

  Being Sunday there were plenty of day trippers arriving on this little gem in the middle of the lake but despite this the atmosphere of the place was very laid back. First stop, a lakeside restaurant for lunch – all that mountain air had given us healthy appetites.

Caroline and Cheryl - ready for lunch!

  It was pure joy to sit by the crystal clear waters enjoying delicious food – pear and walnut salad, seafood pasta, lasagne and a nice local white wine - and feasting our eyes on the distant mountains.  Does the amazing scenery make the food taste better?  Or is it just the freshness of the ingredients in France and Italy?  I’ll swear it is not just the imagination!

Lovely lunch spot - Isola del Pescatori

After lunch we strolled right around the island – it does seem a little more gentrified than when I was last here (in the 1980’s) but it is still enchanting.  Of course there is the usual plethora of little souvenir shops but it is very easy to find a quiet spot to sit and contemplate the views  - today we could see up the valley towards Domodossola, the Simplon Pass and the Matterhorn - one route through to Switzerland.

View towards Ferriola and the Alps from Isola del Pescatori

  The lake was busy with little sailing boats and everyone was having a simply fantastic Sunday afternoon.

Island strolling

Next stop on our lake excursion was the Isola Bella, just a few minutes away from Pescatori and site of a grand palace and an over-the-top manicured garden.

The palace, Isola Bella

  Although it was 15 euros each to tour the palace and the gardens we were keen to see the main event – the famous white peacocks – so handed over our cash.  The palace was splendid in a very unhomely kind of way – vast rooms, uncomfortable furniture and dozens of ancestor portraits peering down at us.  Very much a “look at me, look at me” kind of place.  Interesting nevertheless – I hope the current owners (the descendants of the Dukes of Borromeo) have a nice cosy apartment in the palace. 

We finally reached the gardens which are a strange mix of beautiful trees and shrubs collected from around the world and some rather garish stone grottos adorned with huge statues of various provenance.

Isola Bella Gardens

Fanciful grotto Isola Bella Gardens

 And there were the peacocks – oh wow!  These rather snooty birds are pure white and enormous.  And very, very beautiful!  They lounge about on the lawns, or sit on stone walls, tolerating the visitors and the constant clicking of cameras.  As the church bells rang out on the hour many of them joined in with rather plaintive cries, but they soon settled back to their leisurely ways.

"Look at me, look at me!"

As we did not want to miss the last boat back to Stresa our visit to Isola Bella was cut short and we headed into the main square of Stresa in search of gelato.  The square was busy and the restaurants beginning to fill up (apero time).  We were spoiled for choice when it came to gelato and checked out several shops before choosing.   My favourite is amarena (cherry) and it was scrumptuous.  Cheryl was keen to try basil and mango but could only find basil and passionfruit – ok but not exceptional.  And there was Hotel Elena where we stayed with small children back in 1985 - ah the memories!

Main square, Stresa (Hotel Elena on the left)

Happy to call it a day, we drove back to Orta San Giulio via the valley and along the eastern side of the lake.  After a lovely lunch and gelato we decided to forgo dinner and settled for an early night.  All this wonderfulness can be a bit tiring!

Monday 22 June

Not quite so sunny today, but still warm and pleasant at Lake Orta.  A quiet day planned – no car trips, just some strolling  and a little boat ride to Isola San Giulio.

Wandering down to the village

It was nice to have a leisurely look around the village, to check out the shops (not many) and admire the architecture and beautiful faded colours of the buildings which blend so harmoniously.

Sweet village houses

 The main square which faces onto the lake always seems busy although it is not overrun with tourists.  Today there was a wedding taking place with lots of beautifully attired guests wandering about.

View from Orta San Giulio to the island

After checking out the town we caught the ferry across to Isola San Giulio where there is a large still operating Benedictine monastery and very little else – only one restaurant and a few lakefront houses.

Orta San Giulio from the ferry boat

View to Orta San Giulio from the island boat ramp

  We made the circuit of the island, taking care to observe the signs for silence, peeked into the rather ornate church and then caught the boat back.

Monastery precinct, Isola San Giulio

 Lunch today in the square overlooking the lake – just a salad as we had a booking for one of the best restaurants in the evening - our final night all together.

Lunch in the square

 Our route home was around the lake instead of straight up the hill.

Scenic route home

 The girls had booked massages at the hotel for late afternoon  - Cheryl and I enjoyed a nice cup of tea on the terrace and then we luxuriated in a couple of hours rest before dinner. 

Dinner turned out to be superb – mine was beef filet with Bernaise sauce cooked to perfection.  The local wine was rather good too and the service was superb. Such lovely finale to our stay at Lake Orta. 

Hotel La Bussola on the hill - highly recommended

Sadly I will say good bye to Cheryl and Christy in the morning as I must fly from Milan back to Germany while they carry on with Caroline to Lakes Como and Garda, and then to Assisi.  I will be meeting the rest of the family in Naples next Sunday.  We have had a fantastic time together over the past few days, seen some gorgeous scenery, enjoyed some glorious food and had lots of laughs.  Just what the doctor ordered, although unfortunately Caroline now has a cold which is not what we wanted.  I hope she will not be too unwell  - she will be the driver throughout the rest of the journey south.  This is has been the best hotel of our journey and one of the loveliest places to visit in all of Europe.  Definitely on the "return to" list!