Thursday 20 August 2015

Capri - Paradise Island


Saturday 4 July

Weather - perfect, warm, sunny, calm seas
Company - the best - Caroline, Alex and Zac, Jess and Stefano, Aurora and Amy -     wish Lu was here too.
Event - private boat tour to the wonderful island of Capri which sits off the end of the Sorrentine Peninsula  - hoping for a great day out!
Beautiful, blissful Isle of Capri

We walked to the pier, grabbing coffee and food on the way and were soon sailing along the amazing coast, craning our necks towards the mountains and enjoying the commentary from our captain and guide, Francesco.  We also had the company of two girls from NZ (Matamata) and a honeymoon couple from Boston.  Just a nice number for our boat.  With drinks and towels supplied we were all set for a great time.
Sailing out past Fornillo Beach, Positano - our villa is directly above (somewhere)

We sailed past the Galli Islands, famous as the home of the sirens in Homer's Odyssey, now privately owned and available for rent at 30,000 euros per night!  Another island we passed by is owned by Oprah Winfrey - privacy guaranteed but a little lonely looking.
Sailing along the Sorrentine Peninsula Coast towards Capri

  The vegetation on the peninsula becomes quite sparse at the tip and then there is a short crossing to reach the high cliffs of Capri.
Crossing the channel to Capri - Alex and Zac feeling relaxed!

  Certainly lots of marine traffic on this beautiful Saturday morning - craft of all shapes and sizes.
Francesco slowed the boat off the main town, Marina Grande, which nestles below the island's mountains, then continued along the coast to moor in a sheltered spot for swimming.  Such a joy to leap into the crystal clear, blue, blue waters!
First landmark on Capri, the main town, Marina Grande
 The coastline of the island is mostly high cliffs inhabited by very sure-footed goats with beautiful villas perched in luxuriant gardens overlooking the sea.  Some of them have steps down to the sea carved into the rock.
Capri Coastline
After cooling off it was back to the journey, westwards along the coast, stopping from time to time to peer into sea caves where the waters were amazing shades of azure and emerald.
Crystal clear waters of one of the many sea caves on Capri

  We passed the famous Blue Grotto where there were boat loads of tourists queuing for a brief visit.  "Not for us", said Francesco.  " I know a better cave which is even more blue."
After about half an hour, We rounded the end of the island and sailed into Marina Piccolo where we would disembark.  What a sight!
Arriving at Marina Piccolo

 A small community of hotels and beach clubs dwarfed by the mountains, huge super yachts moored in the bay, (and lots of little not so super boats) huge rocky formations emerging from the sea, brilliantly blooming oleander and bougainvillea everywhere, children having the best time in the shallow waters, seemingly oblivious to the stony beach.  A feast for the eyes and senses that is impossible to take in at one hit.

Marina Piccolo
The lovely town of Anacapri lies at the top of the mountains above Marina Piccolo, so it was into a couple of open taxi cabs for a bit of a heart stopping, full pelt ride up the mountain road.
Crazy taxi - on the road to Anacapri with some of our gang

  Stupendous views over the sea towards Mt Vesuvius, the island of Ischia and down to the coast far below.
Looking down to Marina Grande

Anacapri is certainly charming  - lots of white washed houses, wonderful gardens full of cherry trees, hydrangeas, geraniums, palm trees, grape vines, lemon groves, even bananas - such a mix.  The soil and climate here obviously provide superb growing conditions.
Aurora, Jessica, Caroline and Alexandra - shopping in Anacapri
 There is one long shopping street where we made note of the gelato store for later, then took refuge from the heat on the verandah of one of the many restaurants for yummy lunch and here were introduced to Stefano's favourite white, Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina, from the Campania region of Italy (heaven in a glass!).
After a little shopping and more sightseeing we returned to Marina Piccolo for a cold drink beside the water while we waited for Francesco to pick us up from the concrete steps set into the rocky shore.  The boats all line up to collect their passengers - there is little room for error and little time to leap aboard!
Jess, Aurora an Amy - Marina Piccolo cafe
Our journey home took us through an archway in one of the rocky outcrops in the bay, past more of the enormous yachts - the one with the Aussie flag is Ilona, belonging to Frank Lowy - complete with helicopter.
Heading for the hole in the rock - off Marina Piccolo

Oh ok - here it is Aussie Frank's Ilona
Once across the channel we stopped for more swimming near the village of Nerano and then Francesco took us to the grotto with the bluest water - so stunning and no queues.

Francesco's blue grotto

We were very happy campers when we returned to Positano at around 6 pm.  A truly relaxing and wonderful day on the water and a fabulous visit to a magical island.

Swimming near Nerano

Post swim chilling - Jess and Stefano
Home to rest and then a final dinner together at a restaurant just down the street - food a bit disappointing, wine great, company awesome!  We were truly spoilt with a full moon, with fireworks over the mountains - perfect really!

Heading into Positano - Jess, Aurora and Amy

Docking at Positano
Positano has really lived up to expectations and we have chosen the best time to be here - hot and sunny, lots going on but not crowded and sweltering as it is at the height of summer.  (Don't come here in August is the advice from Francesco, the local).  Being with the family in this special place has truly been a blessing!
Caroline, Jess and Alex - on the path to Fornillo Beach, Positano 

Villa Maristella - out terrace is under the umbrella on the second level

Zac, Alex, Jess and Caroline - main shopping street, Positano


Rome tomorrow and then back to Germany for me.

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