A Day in Marseille

Friday, 26 July

Another beautiful day in Cassis although the sea looks a little choppy today.  We tended to a few chores at home and then drove to Marseille via a road that ascends to the Col de Gineste at 327 metres and crosses the Plateau de Carpiagne before descending rapidly into Marseille.  The road is excellent and wide - guess why - yes a military facility up on the plateau where they drive tanks around according to the sign we passed.  The landscape is very rocky and the vegetation low and sparse.  This road was part of Stage 5 of this year's Tour de France and it will be closed for a triathlon event this coming Sunday.  Today there were some racing cyclists on the road - perhaps they were practising for Sunday's event. Driving on these roads one gets a very good idea of just how dangerous some of these climbs and descents are for speeding cyclists. It is only a matter of 20 km to Marseille by this route and the view over the city on the descent is stunning - nowhere to stop and take a photo though.



Jess did manage this shot of our descent into Marseille from the car window

Once into Marseille we didn't really know where to go but followed the directions to the city centre.  This seemed to be away from the coast and not really where we wanted to be.  Fortunately Jess spotted a sign to the Vieux Port so we took this road and were rewarded with a lovely drive along the rocky shoreline and right into the busy, bustling harbour. We were able to find a car park easily and set about on a walk around the port which is quite large.

Vieux Port, Marseille

  At first we passed a lot of ships' chandlers and dodgy looking bars, holding our noses because of the stench of sewer pipes.  Surprisingly in this area we came across a nice new immaculate Maccas and made use of the very clean facilities there.  Jess was sure that the other side of the port would be much nicer and she was right.  Extending away from the water were some interesting shopping streets and along the street facing the water were plenty of restaurants that looked very inviting.  Many of them are seafood restaurants - boulliabaise, moules, sardines, and every other kind of fishy thing imaginable. 

  

Back street of Vieux Port

When lunch time arrived we settled for a place offering a wide variety of dishes as well as snacks.  My club sandwich and salad was delicious and my cappucino was the first real one I have had this trip!  The local wines offered at the restaurants always seem to be excellent. When the maître d' found out we were from Australia he dragged some poor bloke out of the kitchen and introduced him as "our Mel Gibson" - there was a sort of resemblance I guess!  A few street entertainers were working their way along the pavement in front of the restaurant - some better than others - and all had their hats out for contributions after the show - the accordion players were by far the best!  Maree nearly fell off her chair when the bill came charging her Mel for a whole bottle of Mum champagne instead of just a glass.   Luckily everyone saw the funny side and the correction made.

This side is better!  Notre Dame de la Garde in the background.

 There were a lot of tourists ambling around the port area - some cruise ships in town today - and there was a bit of a market happening (lavender products and savon de Marseille mostly).  We had a stroll about in the blistering sun - it really bounces off the pale stone of the pavements.  From the port we could see the cathedral (Notre Dame de la Garde) which seems to be on the highest point of the city and the pale terracotta buildings of the old town.  Around the port crowds  were lined up for the numerous boat trips on offer - to the Ile d'If (where the Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned), to the calanques and so on. 
It was strange not to hear any cicadas as we wandered around!  We have become so accustomed to their chorus all day.  The roof over the entrance to the Metro is mirrored much to the amusement of the crowds who like to photograph themselves in upside down mode.

Upside down Jess

This year Marseille is the European Capital of Culture so there are things happening all over the city throughout the year. Our visit to Marseille has been very superficial and I am sure there are heaps of interesting things to do and see in this vibrant city.  The coastline is really amazing with barren rocky cliffs and equally barren rocky islands (Frioul Iles) close to the shore. Certainly a place worthy of further exploration!

The pastel colours of Marseille

We decided to head back to Cassis before the peak hour traffic (1.6 million people in the Greater Marseille area so lots of cars!),  this time taking the two kilometre plus long tunnel under the city and the motorway that loops around Aubagne.  Home to a cool drink and a rest as we have a long day of driving tomorrow.  Weather is still looking great - aren't we lucky!