Oslo

Saturday 24 August. Sunday 24 August and Wednesday 28 August

Saturday
This morning was overcast and Parisian grey - a sign perhaps?  After a quick breakfast and sadly  goodbye to Maree and Melanie (leaving for Australia this afternoon) we were shuttled to Terminal 2 by a very cheery driver, then caught the CDGVAL to Terminal 1 for our flight to Oslo.  It was only 2 hours in the air and we arrived to sunshine and a warm welcome from Jessica's friend, Synne who was to be our guide and interpreter for the week.  It was lovely to see her again and of course Jess was over the moon to be catching up with her uni flatmate.  As with France, there are heaps of ex-Bondies in Oslo so some rocking reunions are planned.


Our Oslo studio

We encountered Scandanavian design and efficiency right away with the extra smooth, high tech fast train from Gardemoen Airport  to Oslo Central and then with our uber-modern studio apartment just off the main shopping street, Karl Johans Gate, only a ten minute walk from the station.  "My City Home" looked rather ordinary from the outside but once inside we decided that the photos on the website did not do it justice.  We have a lobby with closets and an entrance to a swish bathroom (shower stall and heated towel rail - yay!), a large living room with kitchenette and bright orange sofas, French windows and a little balcony and off to one side in the L shape a stylish bedroom area with 2 comfortable beds and a slightly over-the-top orange wall. Wonderfully spacious and comfortable - we will be very happy here.
 By now it was late afternoon and we were in need of a meal  so we headed for a Thai restaurant recommended by the hotel receptionist - what a good choice.  The pad thai and curries were delicious and the price was reasonable by Oslo standards (although not by Aussie ones - but we knew that Oslo would be hard on the wallet).  Feeling rejuvenated we paid a visit to the supermarket for a few essentials as tomorrow the shops are closed.  Oslo was humming with people enjoying Saturday afternoon shopping and sightseeing.

Karl Johans Gate -early morning before the crowds

Jess and Synne were exited about a night out with friends and soon said goodnight and left for Synne's apartment, a bus ride away.  I was feeling like an early night so it was nice to chill out and enjoy the lovely surroundings.  With the windows open the noises of the city floated up to the 4th floor - mostly the rattle of trams and music and laughter from the little café/bar down the street.  Fortunately the double glazing reduced the volume to sleepable level with the windows closed.

Sunday

Breakfast was good - Norwegian seed bread, sweet juicy tomatoes and Norwegian cheese - delicious and another sunny day.  Jess and Synne arrived only moderately shattered from their night out and we decided on a day of culture and city sight seeing.  Synne, clever girl, had booked a rental car through her connections (she works at a hotel in between film assignments) for our trip to her parent's place tomorrow. She is very keen to take us there and her mum and dad have kindly invited us to stay.
We wandered along the Karl Johans Gate admiring the distinctive architecture of many of the buildings, including the Parliament.  Lots of activity around this area as Norway has general elections in two weeks time -  a ton of political parties all with booths and candidates trying to get their message across to the passing parade.

Sunday on the Karl Johans Gate

 We walked as far as the palace but with road works kind of messing up the approach we decided not to proceed but to take a bus to the other side of the harbour and visit a couple of museums.  The bus took us through attractive suburbs, the streets lined with shady trees, and we caught glimpses of the water here and there.  Oslo is not a large city and we actually ventured into the countryside before looping back to some more harbourside suburbs. Our first stop was to visit the Viking Ship Museum.  I was not sure what to expect but must admit to being blown away by the exhibits. The first ship, the Oseberg ship was built in 820 and in 834 was pulled ashore and used as a burial ship for two prosperous women.

Oseberg viking ship

 It was buried in a mound along with many artifacts and remained in this blue clay environment until 1903 when it was discovered by a farmer.  It is the most perfectly preserved of any Viking ship, as are items it contained which are also on display at the museum - they include a cart with wooden wheels, a couple of large sleighs and various household items.  The skeletons of the two women were also intact.

 Wonderfully preserved cart from the Oseberg ship

There are two other ships in the museum, the Tune ship which had partly decayed because it was exposed to the elements for some time, and the mostly complete Gokstad ship, both of which date from the mid 800's and were also used as burial ships.  The museum is fascinating and it is a wonder how these great vessels were built so long ago without the kind of tools we have today.

 Viking Ship Museum, Oslo

When we had seen all that was on offer in this museum we walked about a kilometre to the Kon-Tiki Museum which is beside the harbour and located next to the Flam Museum (Arctic expeditions).  It is a hilly area and quite affluent - beautiful white timber houses in large gardens, many with stunning harbour views.

 Oslo Harbour - beside the Kon-tiki Museum

The story of Thor Heyerdahl and his voyages has enthralled many over the years and it is amazing to see his reed and balsa wood rafts so beautifully displayed in this museum.  How brave these men were to sail the oceans in such flimsy looking vessels. 

Reed raft, Ra 11 which sailed the Atlantic in 1970 crossing from Morocco to Barbados



The story of the Kon-tiki and the lives of Heyerdahl and his crew are told in a mural around the walls of the museum, with photographs and display cases of items used on board.  It makes fascinating reading and in the final glass case is the Oscar that Heyerdahl won in 1951 for his documentary film about the Kon-tiki expedition.

 The Kon-tiki - expedition of 1947

After our visit to this wonderful museum we decided to catch the ferry back to the city and arrived at the docks in front of the city hall and the Nobel Peace Centre.

Nobel Peace Centre



  This is a pedestrianized area with lots of restaurants, boats coming and going and people out and about enjoying a sunny Sunday afternoon. 

Harbour view from City Hall



We had ice cream and then walked home as Jess and Synne had another night of catching up with friends planned and we also wanted to leave for Telemark early in the morning.  It was a wonderful day of learning about the history of Norway and enjoying the city which hugs the lovely Oslo fjord.

 Oslo Fjord - opposite the city center

Wednesday

Skip two days and we are back in Oslo after having had a fabulous time in the Telemark region.  Today we had a bit of a slow start and decided to go to the National Art Gallery to see the special exhibition that is on from May to October this year to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of the painter Edvard Munch - of "Scream" fame.  I didn't know much about Munch but have now learned how prolific he was as an artist, as well as how diverse in style.   On arrival at the gallery we toured the ground floor which has some wonderful works by Norwegian artists as well as some by painters such as Monet, Cezanne, Picasso and the like who influenced local painters.  There are certainly some magnificent and very appealing works on display.

Some of my favourites from the Norwegian painters

No photos permitted in the Munch exhibition



 The upper floor is devoted to Munch's work up until 1903 - the later works are on display at the Munch Gallery on the other side of the city. Some of the work is on loan from various sources for the duration of the exhibition. The works are displayed in a series of themes, some of them quite dark, in different rooms which have been painted in vibrant colours.  Whoever designed this exhibition certainly has a great eye - it is quite stunning.  We came away with a good appreciation of Munch, his life and his work. 
Jess had her eye on some black jeans so we did a little shopping and then jumped on a tram and went to an area of the city which Synne frequents (away from the tourist hotspots) to have lunch.  Plenty of restaurants surrounding a small park and a good choice of food.  Norwegian food is fresh and very tasty, although 20 euros for a glass of chardonnay is pushing it a bit!  This afternoon we were feeling the effects of late nights and all the travelling of the past couple of days so we went back to the hotel for a rest.  Last night in Norway so there was another big night out arranged for the girls.  I was more than happy to relax with a book and a toasted sandwich - early start for the airport tomorrow.  It has been marvellous to have the opportunity to visit Norway and to have been so well taken care of by Synne and her family. 

A Touch of Normandy

Thursday 22 August and Friday 23 August

Thursday

Not too much of a rush this morning as we said goodbye to Rowena and Chris, such lovely friendly people, and packed ourselves into the car for the second to last time.  This morning was extra squeezy as we had to deliver Tiste and his bag to the Quimper station - only twenty minutes of agony! Sunny and very warm was the forecast for our travels.   Our route took us east and then a bit north for an hour and a half to our planned lunch stop, medieval Josselin on the banks of the Nantes-Brest Canal and still in Brittany (Morbihan department). Great recommendation from Ken - it is lovely.  We parked by the canal which is overlooked by a totally pretty little chateau. 

 Josselin  - chateau, canal and flowers

Tubs of flowers everywhere and some brightly coloured canoes on the canal.  There was a hotel by the canal offering a lunch menu but things were rather quiet in this part of town so we walked up the  hill path beside the chateau to the centre.  What a charming place, with colombage buildings painted many different colours, cobbled lanes and a sunny main square lined with restaurants. 

Main square, Josselin

  We found a nice table on the terrace of one restaurant that had a wide variety of dishes on the menu and a shady awning.  In addition, the waiter was extra pleasant and helpful and the whole place had a really happy vibe.  Lunch was delicious and the salads were just-picked fresh.  We were well satisfied with Josselin - a lovely place for a break in the journey and a jolly good lunch.

Medieval Josselin

The day was really warming up to the predicted 30 plus degrees as we set off for Normandy, via Rennes and then heading north to Le Mont Saint Michel, another hour and a half on the motorway.
The car park was park was predictably very full but we thought it was worth having a look at this iconic French landmark as we were passing in the vicinity.  We walked to the beginning of the causeway and the girls decided that the view from a distance was enough to satisfy them.  The heat, crowds and prospect of  a  steep climb up to the abbey all combined to deter any enthusiasm for a closer inspection.  Le Mont St Michel is a stunning and interesting  place but several hours are needed to do it justice.  It was great to see it on a bright sunny day and to get an appreciation of the setting amongst the farms and tidal flats of the bay.

Mont St Michel

The last couple of hours of our journey to Honfleur on the Normandy coast were very scenic.  The autoroute climbs quite high as it crosses the base of the Cherbourg (or Cotentin) Peninsula and affords magnificent views of the countryside for many kilometres. The pastures are lush, the cows enormous and the tractors monstrous! The landscape is  a maze of fields, woods, villages and rolling hills.  The only snag of the day was a tedious traffic jam on the ring road around the city of Caen but we eventually cut loose and in no time arrived at our hotel just one block from the harbour at Honfleur. A lucky find was a car park right outside the hotel (Ibis Styles) and we settled into the colourful modern rooms quickly, then headed out for a walk around the crowded harbour.  Honfleur was bustling as usual and looked enchanting in the evening light.  
 

Evening, Honfleur Harbour

Maree and Melanie wandered off for some retail therapy (last minute gifts) and Jess and I found a good table at a restaurant right beside the harbour.  The prices are exorbitant in this location but what the heck -  last night of our travels and all.  Maree and Mel found us and we had a lovely dinner - food ok, wine excellent, location spot on.  After dinner, and by this time it was dark, we strolled back to the hotel admiring the lights twinkling on the water and the full moon coming up over the river.  A fitting end to a really enjoyable day.

 View from the restaurant, Honfleur Harbour

Friday
We had plenty of time this morning to enjoy breakfast at the hotel, to explore Honfleur, to do a little last minute shopping and to have lunch near the harbour (easier on the wallet) before driving to our hotel at Charles de Gaulle Airport.  Splendid weather again for the final day of our amazing tour of France.  Honfleur is a lovely place to spend a morning.

Jess - Honfleur harbour

 Jess and I were quite taken by a number of little dogs sitting in the doorways of their owner's shops - very cute indeed.  Little friendly guard dogs.

 Love the shop dogs of Honfleur

 Honfleur is very photogenic and the weather was perfect this morning

 Lunch anyone?

So, only a brief look at Normandy but well worth the detour en route to Paris.
The drive to the airport, past Rouen on the autoroute and then across country to link up with a northern by-pass of Paris was hampered by a lengthy hold up in Vernon (roadworks) but was otherwise straightforward and we rolled up to the Peugeot drop off depot on time. Our route took us  through Giverny and we stopped to peek over the fence of Monet's garden - crowds of people visiting even though it was late in the afternoon. The road meandered along a pretty valley before reaching a not too busy motorway that took us all the way to Charles de Gaulle without any hassles - must remember this route away from Paris - very easy access to and from the airport. I have enjoyed driving the 308 station wagon around France - comfortable, spacious and economical (diesel).  Highly recommended. Jess and I had no trouble delivering the car and then taking our extra bag to spend the week at the baggage store in Terminal 2 (so we don't have to take it to Norway). The hotel (Radisson Blu)  was nothing to write home about - overpriced food, smelly room, pathetic Internet connection - but no drama - only a place to sleep for the night and it did have a shuttle service to the airport.  Tomorrow a new adventure!

Last days in Brittany

Tuesday, 20 August and Wednesday 21 August

Tuesday
Jessica had a hair appointment in Quimper so Baptiste and I went with her this morning and had another stroll around the old city. We were quite happy to see some more of this lovely place and with brilliantly blue skies the old buildings looked even lovelier than the other day. 


Quimper cathedral

Fortunately Quimper was not crowded and after Jess had undergone a transformation from blonde to brunette we were able to enjoy our second scrumptious lunch at Le Petit Gaveau.  Jess and I had "Croistillant  Burger - crusty burgers. There is a half bun under the meat and cheese and a crispy roti on top.  What a good idea, especially if like me you think that burgers have too much bread.  Delicious with crunchy green salad and pommes de terre grenaille.  Not to mention a chilled chardonnay - the wine is always so good!

Riverside dining, Quimper

Having indulged our taste buds we drove home to collect Maree and Melanie for our afternoon outing.  As the weather was now hot and sunny Jess and Baptiste thought that they should get some beach time in while visiting Brittany. 

Brunette Jess - ready for the beach

We drove west to Audierne which is a busy port and harbour lined with the typical white houses and as an added attraction has a very appealing beach on the ocean side. 


Beach at Audierne

 After depositing Jess and Tiste at the beach, Maree, Mel and I drove back to the town and spent a couple of pleasant hours strolling about, checking out the little shops and generally enjoying the summer holiday ambience. 

Flowery Audierne

We stopped for an ice-cream but the glacier was all out of everything but lemon flavour - no thanks!  Our beach bunnies were ready for collection and we met them at a café on a high point overlooking both the beach and the harbour - and yes the cafe had ice-cream.  Mel and I made the most of one of our last chances for "deux boules, rhum/ raisin and caramel beurre sel"(salty caramel)  - sooooo good!  Why does ice cream taste so good at the beach?  The late afternoon sun on the sand and the water is wonderful - a kind of golden glow.

Audierne

 We left Audierne around 6 pm and took the road to Pointe du Raz,  the most westerly point in France and famous for its lighthouse (called La Vieille) and huge waves which often feature in photographs and paintings.  The landscape became quite rugged as we approached and it is obvious from the low, scrubby vegetation that this is a place of high winds.  Today there was hardly a breathe of wind and the sea was like a mill pond.  Along the way we were surprised to see a large number of houses clustered in small villages as the area feels very remote. It is also very un-French looking (if that is possible).  The houses and landscape are very reminiscent of the wilder parts of Cornwall or maybe parts of Scotland. 

White cottages   - on the road to Pointe du Raz

The last kilometre of access to Pointe du Raz is by foot through fields covered with low shrubby plants that are ablaze with purple flowers - maybe heather, I am not sure.  Anyway it is quite a sight.


Calluna (heather) beside the path to Pointe du Raz (I googled it)

 Pointe du Raz is high above the sea and the views are far reaching with the low lying Isle-de-Sein visible in the distance.  Fishing boats were working in the rough waters around the lighthouse. This is where two currents and tides meet, hence the huge waves, even on a calm day.  There is a memorial to the victims of shipwrecks and a large shipping radar post at the Pointe, otherwise just wide open spaces.

Pointe du Raz - La Vieille and Isle-de-Sein on the horizon

  From the path a little further around the point there is a good view down to a popular surfing beach called, rather morbidly, Baie des Trepasses (Bay of those who have passed on) - apparently bodies from shipwrecked vessels were most likely to wash up on the shores of this bay. 

View along the coast to Baie des Trepasses

 There was quite a crowd on the rocks above the lighthouse, enjoying the evening and no doubt some would be staying to see the sun set but  that was still a couple of hours away and we were ready for home.

Jessica at Pointe du Raz

 It was about 40 minutes back to Douarnenez where we did the unthinkable (in France anyway) and grabbed some Maccas to eat in the garden back at the house.

The hamlet of Le Merdy

Wednesday
A lovely day for our final one in Brittany and we spent the morning catching up on laundry, emails, and just chilling in the garden where the swallows were having heaps of fun doing aerial acrobatics.

Sunny morning at Le Merdy

  After cleaning up all the food left in the frig for lunch I drove Jess and Tiste to the nearest beach, La Plage des Sables Blancs which is at Treboul, for a last tanning session - swimming was not an option for Jess as the water is pretty chilly and not for wimps or Gold Coast girls. 

La Plage des Sables Blancs, Treboul

 As they only wanted to stay a couple of hours and Maree and Mel were happy back at Le Merdy, I took myself off for a bit of a drive in the countryside and tended to some car things for the journey tomorrow.  I followed a country lane for a while and then took a road through rolling farmlands to Pont Croix which advertised itself as a "cite medieval".


Along country roads, Finistere

 In fact Pont Croix turned out to be a very sleepy village on the banks of a tidal river - it was definitely medieval though.  I parked in the square and wandered through the deserted streets to a square with a very grand and very old (C13th) church. 

The church at Pont Croix

A few people with cameras appeared here and there but otherwise there was little sign of life.  There was a tourist office so evidently the town has some claim to fame (maybe the church) - I didn't have time to find out.

Pont Croix

After ensuring that our trusty Peugeot was good for the road I headed back to the beach to collect Jess and Tiste and we went back to Le Merdy to finish packing up.  Later in the evening Jess, Tiste and I went to Douarnenez for an evening meal only to find that the restaurant which serves dishes other than fish was fully booked.  Baptiste's cousin had told him that Douarnenez has the best crepes in France so we thought we would give a creperie a go.  We chose the busiest looking one and were lucky to get a table.  No wonder it was busy - the crepes were certainly delicious!  A lovely evening for our last night in Brittany and I did spot a dream of a French cottage today! 

French cottage anyone? (Pont Croix)

 And some more window artistry!