Last Day in the Mountains

Friday 2 August

A few chores to attend to this morning as we are moving on first thing tomorrow morning. Some little clouds about today but still plenty of blue sky.  We set off for the ski resort/spa town of  Cauterets - only 16 km but a pretty steep climb.  Once again the road snakes up a deep gorge formed by the Gave de Cauterets River. Most of the way the road is a decent width, but the gradient  is pretty fierce - lots of low gear driving and no trouble  for our diesel Peugeot.
As we approached Cauterets we encountered the huge earth works which had the closed the road earlier in the week - apparently there is a rush on to finish this major project before the ski season begins (15 October).  There was evidence everywhere of the devastating floods which hit the area in June.  Unlike Peru however where little has been done in many places since the 2010 floods, the French authorities have launched into repair mode with great gusto.  I guess they have more resources and of course world-class engineering skills.  One can only imagine the ferocity of the waters that poured through the valleys.
We didn't stop in Cauterets on the way - it surprised us by being a much larger town that we had expected - but continued on up another 8 km of very steep but well sealed and reasonably  wide road to Pont D'Espagne which is the end of the road and kicking off point for all the marvellous hiking trails in this part of the Pyrenees.  Along the way the road passes by several  spectacular waterfalls.

On the road to Pont d'Espagne

We paid 11.50 euros each, including car parking for one of the best mountain experiences imaginable. Pont d'Espagne is an old bridge that crosses two mighty waterfalls and is on the route of an ancient mule path that led across the Pyrenees from France to Spain but more of that soon.
The first leg of our  hike to Lac de Gaube  (at 1800 metres} was a short telecabine (cable car) ride to a beautiful valley where day trippers were picnicking on the smooth rocks or carpets of green grass and wildflowers beside the rushing, pristine waters of mountain streams.


Telecabine - Pont d'Espagne

Idyllic picnic spot

 We walked a little way along one of the rivers and came across the most bucolic scene of huge creamy coloured cows grazing on the river flats.  Above us towering mountains, some still with snow, were quite breathtaking.  

High altitude cows

Pont d'Espagne is located in a deep valley, formerly the site of a huge glacier (melted millions of years ago).  There are enormous piles of fallen rock littering the valley but the scene is really idyllic.

View from the telesiege

We could have made the hour and  a half trek up to Lac de Gaube (next time) but as it was already afternoon we opted to use the telesiege (chairlift) - a twelve minute, gobsmackingly gorgeous ride to another higher valley where the lake is located. It is truly delightful to be sailing silently above the trees taking in the mountain vistas and the pretty ferns and flowers below our feet.  What a variety of flowers grow in this alpine environment.  Even above the tree-line the grass is green and lush.  The trees are a mixture of conifers and deciduous varieties.  It must be pretty stunning in autumn.

Alpine flowers

 So it was off the telesiege and on with our trek, a mostly level, slightly downhill track high above the valley and  still with those wonderful views.  Lac de Gaube appears suddenly, beneath the mighty Mt Vignemale which is the highest mountain in these parts (3298 metres) and is right on the border with Spain.

Approaching Lac de Gaube

 The mountains surround the lake which is a startling blue with the sun is shining on it.  The contrast with the green trees and meadows and the snow capped mountains is magnificent.  It is a place to just sit and take in the splendour and beauty in the warm sun- and there were certainly a lot of people doing just that.  No doubt our lungs were really enjoying the fresh mountain air too!

Lac de Gaube

 We rewarded ourselves with a drink and a slice of myrtle tart (scrumptious) and then spent some time just enjoying being in this special environment.  Finally we dragged ourselves away and headed back along the trail and our lift down to Pont d;Espagne.  


Last view of the lake

 This time we walked downhill to famous bridge and stopped to admire and photograph the roaring waterfalls which seem to descend from the mountains on all sides.


Walking down the trail to Pont d'Espagne

Jessica at Pont d'Espagne

 This is a really special and uplifting place which we have thoroughly loved.  It is really great that the mountains here have been made accessible to everyone, including the young and the disabled.  And of course there are heaps of challenging trails for those who wish to extend themselves.  I must admit to being a tad disappointed that I didn't see a marmot in the wild - I am such a marmot-lover!  They probably sit up on the high slopes and wonder at the lack of nimble-footedness of all the human visitors - having a chuckle no doubt!

Waterfall at Pont d'Espagne

 On the way down the hill we stopped at a couple of the more impressive waterfalls and also at Cauterets for a brief visit.  We decided that Cauterets is probably more charming in the winter when there is snow all around. 

Cauterets

The journey down the mountain road was rather quicker than the ascent and we arrived back in Argeles quite ready for a nice glass of wine on the balcony and a rest.  Yet another "highlight" day - so memorable and such a privilege to have had this experience.