Monday 12 August 2013

Monday - siesta day?

Monday 12 August

Well we did get some sleep last night, although still woken up by the clanging church bells.  Maybe after a few years in St Aignan we wouldn't even notice them.  Rachael, our house owner, has sent a nice reply re missing chair - they were somewhat flabbergasted at the theft as well.
In fact it  is very quiet in the town this morning and it seems some of the shops and restaurants do not open on a Monday - found this out when I walked to the boulangerie for fresh croissants which are apparently not going to happen today!  Jess was keen to work on some music stuff today so Maree, Mel and I took ourselves off for a drive south of the river through the cornfields and sunflower fields. We thought it would be nice to go somewhere not so busy today after the crowds yesterday.  Be careful what you wish for - or words to that effect.
We soon reached the Plus Beaux Village of Montresor which was distinctly "unbusy", parked the car and walked along the riverside path on the opposite side to the village.  While the river was somewhat murky (and we are quite fussy now after spending so much time following pristine mountain waterways) the views to the village and the lovely weeping willow trees were very pleasant. 
Montresor Chateau - riverside walk
 We crossed the river at the other end of the village and strolled up a gentle incline to the small chateau and very large church which dominate the highest point.  Some of the village houses look as though they haven't changed for centuries, while others look a bit more modernised.  Many have wonderful vegetable gardens overflowing with a huge array of vegies and flowers.  Others have unmown fields leading down to the small river that are covered in wildflowers.  A most rustic scene.
Vegie garden and castle
  The church is very imposing, built of the pale tuffeau stone that predominates in this area but it was not open so we couldn't peek inside.  A little further on we came to the impressive entrance portal to the small but exquisite chateau - dating from 1007.  The fellow at the entrance said we could visit the gardens and if we wanted we could also have a tour inside the building.  We opted for the gardens and were not disappointed.
Entrance to Montresor Chateau

 As well as having great views of the village and surrounding countryside, the trees and flowering plants are stunning and the backdrop of crumbling walls, castle turrets and a very fine manor house give the whole place a really magical atmosphere.  There were only about half a dozen other people there which made for a very calm and peaceful visit.
Exploring the garden, Montresor Chateau
  We poked about in nooks and crannies in the walls and climbed some ancient rickety steps to get the best views.  It is an absolutely delightful place and totally non-commercialised (well you can buy a postcard or a tea towel).  From the chateau garden we could see that the only action in town was at the small café in the village - maybe a dozen lunchtime diners.  The only other sign of life was a cycling couple having a picnic by the river.

Looking over the village from Montresor Chateau


We walked back through the silent, shuttered streets of the town to the car - nothing open, nobody about.   Must be a Monday siesta.
From Montresor it was a short drive to the larger market town of Loches which has a nice medieval castle and a donjon, a pretty park and some old cobblestone lanes leading up from the river that passes through the town.  On the way we came across a huge complex of ancient stone buildings which are partially hidden behind a stone wall.  On investigation we found out that this is the Chartreuse du Liget is a former Carthusian abbey dating from 1178.  Whilst it is privately owned visits are permitted although we decided against walking down the long path past the abandoned and rather spooky looking buildings.

Entrance to the Chartreuse du Liget
 So it was on to Loches where we parked and walked up into the medieval city.  Like Montresor, it seemed almost empty apart from a few people in a couple of cafes.  All the shops were closed and the whole place had a rather melancholy air, despite the warm sunny day.  It was not at all the bustling vibrant market-day Loches that I remember. 
Loches
 With nothing much to do once we had wandered around the sights a bit we succumbed to the lure of a café for a drink and a snack. What is with Mondays in this part of the world?  Was it a public holiday that we didn't know about?  Or did everyone have a really hard weekend?  No answers but we decided to head back to St Aignan which was only marginally more alive.
St Aignan - town and chateau
 After dinner Maree and I walked down to the river, across the first bridge and onto a grassy island.  From out of the trees a red and white hot air balloon emerged and sailed off into the sunset.  Very pretty but still hardly anyone about to notice.
Hot air balloon over the Cher River at St Aignan
 Nice views across the river to the town.  We saw a banner advertising an Island Fete on Thursday.  Maybe things will liven up then!
Evening light on the church, St Aignan

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