Sunshine and Sunflowers

Saturday 10 August

It was a little cool this morning as we left Cenac-et-St-Julien, heading north through the middle of France but the day promised to be fine and sunny.  We made a couple of photo opportunity stops before climbing up through the forests and out of the Dordorgne Valley.  Along the road just before La Roque Gageac are some large fields of sunflowers in full bloom and looking an absolute picture in the morning sun.  A strategically placed stone farmhouse stands beside the fields - the quintessential Dordogne scene and well worth pulling over for some photos.

Sunflowers, early morning in the Dordogne Valley

 Sunflowers look so happy when their faces are turned up  and I always feel a little sad when I see them drooping as the flowers fade.  Today we were to drive past huge fields of sunflowers as we made our way through the northern Dordogne and into the Haut Vienne department.

Sunflowers fields beside the Dordogne River

As the mighty Castelnaud chateau came into view we decided to make a quick detour back across the river for some close- up  shots of this castle which dominates the surrounding countryside.  It is very imposing. 

Castelnaud Chateau

The roads were quiet this morning - a bit early for all the tourists so it was a pleasant drive along the narrow riverside route to St Cyprien where we turned away from the river and up towards Perigueux, the capital of the region. 

 Beynac Chateau and no traffic jam today!

 This part of the journey was a bit slow and winding and it took a while to negotiate our way through Perigueux but after a couple of hours we arrived in Brantome for a mid-morning break.
We all loved Brantome - who wouldn't? 

Beautiful Brantome

 The setting of town beside the River Dronne, the park, the lovely gardens, the pale grey stone buildings, the abbey, the narrow lanes with little shops and cafes - all these combine to present a most charming and inviting place. 

The Abbey at Brantome

 We polished off delicious petite dejeuner at a specialist coffee/tea shop (absolutely the best!) and then somehow managed to end up in a shoe shop where Jess, Maree and Mel were delighted with their shoe purchases (none for me - I have too many shoes already although I must admit to being tempted by one pair of stunners.  Luckily they were not available in my size!).  After some more wandering about the town we reluctantly dragged ourselves away. In the park there were preparations underway for something called the "Omelette Geant" - an event which involves buying a ticket for 12 euros and then enjoying a five course lunch in the park, the menu including melons, mushrooms, omelettes, dessert and wine.  Crowds were beginning to arrive in town as we departed so a large attendance seems guaranteed.  I have decided that Brantome and the surrounding area is going on my "must return to" list of places.

Brantome is too lovely!

 Our route north took us through the interesting towns of Nontron and St Junien although we didn't have time to stop off.  I had not been sure about the roads when planning this route but we were delighted to find that it was very easy driving on good roads with very little traffic.  In fact all through the Haut Vienne and into the departments of Vienne, Indre-et-Loire and Cher-et-Loir we had long stretches of straight road through lovely farmlands and at times went for ages without seeing another car.
Our second rest stop of the journey was at the Plus Beaux village of Mortemart - a few houses, a covered market, an ancient church and a small chateau - all very pretty and historically significant of course.  We had a drink with some fellow travellers at the one café in the main square - lovely sitting in the sun in such a tranquil setting - and then it was on the road again.

Very grand and interesting church dating from C14th in the tiny village of Mortemart

I set the Tomtom for Angles-sur-l'Anglin (Plus Beaux again) and we encountered the only busy stretch of road for about twenty kilometres near Bellac before heading off on another lovely quiet route.
Arriving at Angles-sur-l'Anglin,  in the Vienne department, from the west is quite amazing.  After meandering along through the countryside we suddenly dropped down into a valley and there before us on a cliff top above the river was a spectacular chateau ruin - very dramatic! 

Angles-sur-l'Anglin

 Beside the chateau a pretty village clings to the hillside.  We pulled over before crossing the river and were rewarded with some lovely views as we walked across the bridge.  What an enchanting place!  It most definitely deserves its listing by Plus Beaux Villages de France. Along the riverside there are some magnificent weeping willows and some lovely old houses with waterfront gardens - blissful!  There was more of this lovely place to come at the top of the hill on the other side of the river.  This is Haut Village  - also delightful although the cafes had stopped serving food for the afternoon (except ice-cream of course). 

Looking up the hill to Haut Village, Angles-sur-l'Anglin

 We found a boulangerie and bought cheese, ham and tomato baguettes which we took to the little park and had an impromptu picnic under a shady chestnut tree.  From the park there is a splendid panorama of the valley, the chateau and the river.  So, today we have had absolutely gorgeous stop offs on our journey, perfect sunny weather (25 degrees) and an easy drive through very easy on the eye countryside.  How fortunate we have been.

View from the top - Angles-sur-l'Anglin

 As we got to the region known as Centre the land became flatter and the fields of wheat stretched into the distance.  We arrived in St Aignan sur Cher at 6 pm, found La Place de Paix easily and met Nathalie who installed us in our three story little house right bang slap in the middle of town.  The house was formerly a bakery and the front door opens directly onto the street so we have no private outdoor space.  However the house is delightfully renovated and spacious.  It will be a different experience for us.  St Aignan (population 3500) is on the banks of the Cher River and is overlooked by a pretty chateau.  We are a couple of blocks from the river and there are restaurants and shops right outside our door.  After we had settled in we walked around the town and then had a light meal in a very cosy restaurant called Le Crepiot.  My room is in the attic (very large and full head room) and I have a great view of the rooftops and the church tower from my window - hope the bells don't ring too early!  The end of a lovely day!

View from the attic window - St Aignan