Lazy Sunday

Sunday 4 August

Sunshine and sounds of lots of activity in the village below us this morning.  After a leisurely breakfast Maree and I took a stroll down to the main street to find it quite busy. The cafes, tabac/presse and small supermarket are all open on Sunday morning so we were able to pick up the things we had forgotten last night.  The main street has some attractive old buildings in typical Perigordian style and all the facilities one would need on a daily basis. 


Down the hill to Cenac main street

Our return route took us past an old manor-house with large park which seems to belong to the town and there we found the Foire du Vin so we made a detour to see what it was all about. Monsieur le Microphone was already on announcement duty and there were plenty of people wandering about under the shade of some very large and ancient trees.  All around the park were stalls belonging to the wine producers of the region - from as far away as Bordeaux and St Emilion - and of course the idea is to go from stall to stall tasting the offerings (and hopefully making some purchases). I could imagine quite a few merry fair goers after a circuit of the stalls!  In the centre of all this activity was a huge marquee with long tables and benches set up - some kind of feast was obviously going to happen later in the day.  On the other side of the park there was a vide grenier (car boot sale) in full swing and it was fascinating to check out the offerings - some exquisite porcelain, some tatty household stuff, old toys and some interesting brocante items (great for renovating or decorating that cute French cottage - dream on!).  We walked back up the hill to our house and proceeded to laze about and chat on Skype.

Hillside houses, Cenac

After lunch we decided to walk up the hill to Domme which is a village of the Plus Beaux association and besides being drop-dead gorgeous has wonderful views over the Vallee de la Dordogne.  It is a bit of a slog - 25 minutes up a sealed road in the heat, but good for our health!  Some shady spots to rest on the way.

Road to Domme

 Domme was not too crowded - everyone was at the Wine Fair or canoeing down the river I suspect.  It is hard to hurry up the Grande Rue as there are so many interesting shops to poke about in and to be tempted by.  I love the poppy lady's shop - she and her husband make beautiful highly glazed ceramics and their special motif is the coquelilot, the red poppy which dances in the fields all over France.

Typical Domme street

 Finally we made it to the top of the hill and had ice-creams to celebrate - my first taste of violette flavoured ice-cream (flowery but nice). All the buildings seemed to be glowing in the afternoon sun and it seems each one is prettier than the last.

Domme Library -pretty or not?

 We walked under the trees on the wide terrace and then feasted our eyes on the magnificent view over the Dordogne River valley - well part of it anyway.


Terrace restaurant, Domme

 The river meanders through fields of tobacco, corn and freshly rolled hay bales, past neat rows of walnut trees and patches of woodland.  Beautiful creamy coloured stone farm buildings and small hamlets dot the countryside.



Rural enchantment - la Vallee de la Dordogne

 In the distance the forest covered hills rise up from the valley, at times exposing some of the high limestone  cliffs which are  synonymous with the trogolodyte culture so prevalent in the history of the region.  It is truly a picture of rural harmony. 

View across the valley to La Roque Gageac

The river today was littered with brightly coloured canoes and many of the paddlers were into the water for a cooling swim. 

Canoes on the Dordogne by the Cenac bridge

This is another place that is difficult to leave but eventually we made our way down the hill and home for a bit of a late afternoon siesta.  In our lane we stopped to admired the roses on the walls and chatted (in French) with our really nice neighbour, Michel.  He insisted that I "coupe" some roses so I returned with scissors to pick a bunch - added some from our garden and some spikes of lavender  and presto, our dining table looks as though we have spent a fortune at the florist. Divine perfume too. Michel's wife Chantal dropped by with some extra bed linen so more opportunity for French conversation as neither speak any English.  I am at a loss as to why their two little pooches are called Gypsy and Princess!  Anyway they are the loveliest people to have as neighbours.

Roses from the lane and the garden

 When it was a bit cooler Maree and I had our evening walk - downhill this time to the river which is just beyond the town.  There are canoe hire places all along the river and on one side of the Cenac road is a very well patronised camping ground.  Lots of families with small children were enjoying the evening on the grassy riverbanks - most of the kids were playing in the water and having a wonderful time.  It is certainly summer holiday paradise around here.

Evening by the Dordogne River at Cenac

By now Cenac was quiet, the Microphone Man having gone home and likewise all the revellers from the Foire du Vin.  Driving around the countryside we have seen dozens of posters advertising fetes, foires and similar events in villages throughout the coming month. Obviously these occasions figure prominently on the village social calendar in France.
We are enjoying the benefits of a stone house with metre thick walls - it stays quite cool inside even when the temperatures are soaring into the high thirties - air-con not needed.  I have discovered a greengage (I think) plum tree in the garden - delicious fruit - and a fully laden fig tree - not ripe yet.  The prolific crop of grapes on the vine over the pergola is not ripe yet either - shame. The vegie gardens around here are also a sight to behold - what a bountiful place! I love to walk along the lanes and peek over the stone walls - just to check out the vegie patches of course.  Tonight I shall be dreaming of "the good life".

The upper terrace at our holiday house, Cenac