Castles and Crowds

Sunday 11 August
Our house is on the Place de Paix where there are several restaurants and it is really, really noisy - people having very loud conversations until 2 am this morning and then the merry banging and crashing of a Sunday brocante market being set up in the square and surrounding streets from 6am.  As an added insult the church bells are quite the most unmelodic I have heard!

Early morning wake-up call from the Brocante market - below my window

  Along with seriously uncomfortable beds - like sleeping on a board - all this meant that none of us had a good night's sleep.  It may be convenient being in the middle of town but it is not very relaxing.  Also no outside space is making us feel a little claustrophobic - something to remember for future bookings.  Our apartment in Paris was quieter than it is here!  To top it off Jess took a small chair just outside the front door in order to sit in the square this evening and when she came indoors for a short time someone nicked it!  Whatever!!!!  To be fair however, the house is quite charming and has everything we need.

Spacious attic bedroom (with ensuite and view)

 Well back to the day - nice and sunny again and it was interesting to walk around the brocante market.  From what I could see most of the items on sale were old books, old toys, old dishes and household paraphernalia.  I guess one could pick up something a bit unique but certainly not of any value.  I had a long chat with a lovely Parisian woman who had set up outside our front door with a table and a few household items for sale.  She and her family have a holiday cottage in the area - she loves coming away for the weekend and it is only a couple of hours from here to Paris.  I was amazed that she stayed all day, husband and daughter occasionally in attendance - no she didn't nick our chair.  The market was quite crowded during the morning and then all the restaurants were doing great business at lunchtime.

Parisian lady and her daughter - brocanting outside our house, St Aignan

 We drove to the local supermarket this morning to stock up and then decided to make the most of the lovely day by going to visit Chenonceau Chateau which is a short distance along the Cher River towards Tours.  The carpark was ominously overflowing into a field when we arrived after lunch and the bus park was similarly full. More then a few people visiting this most popular of chateaux today!

Lovely Chenonceau

Fortunately Chenonceau is set in very ample grounds - forest, gardens and farm - so the large number of visitors was fairly well spread around outside. 
 Different story inside the chateau however and it is hard to appreciate the quality and significance of the paintings, furnishings and decoration when there are so many people in a limited space.  One thing I have noticed about Chenonceau is that there are always large and  magnificent bowls of fresh flowers on the tables throughout the castle.  I am fortunate to have been here before in less crowded circumstances so I didn't linger for long inside.

Flowers in Chenonceau

 The opposite bank of the river which can be reached by drawbridge is heavily wooded and very peaceful - the chateau looks especially lovely from this side. 

From the other side of the river

The formal gardens were looking very splendid in colours of pink, white and mauve and they are certainly very well tended.  The flowers are simple but the mass plantings and colour combinations are what makes the gardens so special.

Gardens of Chenonceau

 It was also really nice in the flower and vegetable garden - everything blooming beautifully as it is the middle of summer.  It was fascinating to see dark reddish black coloured sunflowers growing beside the usual bright yellow variety.

Unusual sunflowers at Chenonceau

Having done our dash at Chenonceau (and I still think it is gorgeous) we continued on to the town of Amboise, which is on the Loire River.  This is where Leonardo da Vinci spent the last three years of his life in a small castle called Clos Luce which has life size replicas of some of his designs in the gardens.  However at 25 euros a head for a visit we decided to pass.   The town car  parks were very full and so we drove to the other side of the river to take in a panoramic view of the town and Amboise Chateau.

Loire River and Amboise Chateau

 As evening was approaching we drove back to St Aignan and after dinner Maree, Mel and I walked up to the local chateau which is set in a park on  a hill above the town.  Although privately owned and not open to the pubic, the terrace of the chateau can be accessed.  Some of the buildings are medieval, but the chateau itself dates from the 1600s. 

St Aignan Chateau

 It has a very ornate exterior and there are great views over the town and the river from the terraces.  The is no evidence that anyone actually lives there, apart from a light on in the gate house (caretaker perhaps?).  Anyway it makes a lovely place for an evening walk. 



St Aignan and the Cher River from the chateau

Arrived back and had the unfolding drama of the disappearing chair.  So bizarre.  Have emailed the owner and no doubt will be replacing it (possibly an Ikea product or something similar - certainly not an antique - I hope!)  Also hope the town is a little quieter tonight so we can sleep.